Tanzer's [Reynolds] take on the Grange:
94 ST
Inky violet with a bright rim. Explosive and utterly captivating on the nose, offering a range of aromas that encompasses red and darker berries, flowers, cigar box, minerals and sexy oak spices. Quite broad on the palate, and packing a real punch to its flavors of cassis, boysenberry, candied plum, bitter chocolate and fruitcake. Serious, harmonious tannins give plenty of structural support. This expands and grows even sweeter with aeration, finishing with outstanding persistence. Oak spices add sex appeal. A superb Grange. 94 points
By Josh Raynolds
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
--International Wine Cellar
I enjoyed this article on the DRC and the 2004 vintage:
http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsbu ... 03184.html
Many critics -- including the widely read American Robert Parker -- dismissed the 2004 red Burgundies as "mediocre" or worse.
Difficult growing conditions made for a challenging vintage, but as Aubert de Villaine, who has served since 1964 as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's co-director, recently noted at a tasting at New York City's Per Se restaurant: "It was a vintage to test our skills, and this is something we don't dislike, especially when it had a great finish leading to such fine music."
De Villaine likened the very ripe 2003 vintage to a brass band, and the classically proportioned 2002 vintage to a symphony. But the 2004 reds are, he says, like chamber music with subtle, delicate nuances appealing to connoisseurs. One might add that the 2004s have much to teach to those willing to apply de Villaine's insights more broadly.
The 2004 vintage reminded de Villaine of Napoleon's comments on the French victory at Marengo, Italy: "We lost the battle at 2 p.m. but got it back at 7 p.m."
Rain and cold conditions early in Burgundy's 2004 growing season led to mildew and odium in the vineyards.
A beneficial heat wave in July stressed the vines just before veraison, when the pinot noir berries began turning color. But in August, hail and botrytis molds again threatened to turn the harvest into a complete fiasco.
Beginning on Aug. 25, however, de Villaine said an "extraordinary about face" of six weeks of dry, clear and warm weather allowed the grapes to gain sugar rapidly and ripen properly. He gambled by waiting as long as possible to begin harvesting, with several passes through the vineyards just before autumnal rains swept in.
Since hail had damaged many clusters and the botrytis had shriveled many grapes, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti's workers at the winery's sorting table used extra efforts to ensure using only ripe and healthy fruit.
Upon removing the 2004 wines from the vats after the initial fermentation, the tasting results pleased de Villaine, who noted, "Only then did we know that what we had lost in August had been won again in September."
He says each 2004 wine has a clear link to its distinctive terroir -- that is, identifiable traits of each vineyard -- more so than in 2003, when extreme heat overwhelmed the grapes, and even, perhaps, to a greater degree than the much ballyhooed 2005 vintage, where supreme purity of fruit may mask terroir.
"Great wines must have spirituality with harmony, grace and elegance, but they must also be seductive so that they will be drunk," de Villaine said. "Some wines seduce later than others, but the 2004s have an early seductiveness that I like very much."
When the 2004s eventually enter a "dumb" stage in bottle, it is critical, he says, to remember that each vintage is different, and, like a person, evolves over time.
Having the patience to taste, enjoy and appreciate wines over the course of years yields many surprises and delights and, of course, some disappointments. But living with, experiencing and understanding a Burgundy vintage with all its quirks is reward in itself that facile numerical ratings will never begin to capture.
The following outstanding 2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti reds are scheduled for availability in Pennsylvania in July 2007, but the double dilemma of extremely limited supplies and incredibly high demand from restaurant customers will constrain retail inventories.
* 2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanee Saint-Vivant (Special Liquor Order 63395, $550.19): Recommended.
