Record early French harvest begins despite cold summer

[Robin Garr]

Can this be right? Earlier than 2003? This has all the makings of a really wacky vintage ...

Cold summer forces earliest French wine harvest on record
The Independent
By John Lichfield in Paris
Published: 23 August 2007

The first bunches of grapes for the manufacture of champagne will be snipped in north-eastern France today - one of the earliest wine harvests ever recorded. Despite miserable weather across much of France in June, July and August - which will greatly reduce the amount of wine produced - the 2007 vendanges, or grape-picking, will be two to three weeks ahead of the normal timetable in most of the country.

The mild winter and the hot weather in April and May gave the grapes a flying start. The wet summer, which produced savage attacks of mildew in some vineyards, has not prevented an early harvest.

Even the reduction in yields - likely to be down 5 to 6 per cent on an average year - is good news, for producers. Vineyards growing the cheapest table wines, in huge surplus worldwide, have been worst affected by the mildew and the wet, cold summer.

Full story in The Independent

When we were in Burgundy, both Marc Dupin at Jadot and Audrey at Mugnier indicated concern. Because of very warm spring, bloom was very early. If I remember correctly they both felt that to go more than 100-110 days from mid-bloom was risky, even if a cool summer slowed ripening. In July, no one was predicting a vintage of the century.

I am very sceptical about the article's report of excellent quality. In any year it is much too soon to say. At present the South West of France is enduring three days of heavy rain, particularly in the Basque region, with some forecasts saying there is more of the same on the way for the middle of next week. Burgundy and Alsace reportedly had something similar about a week or so ago. An Indian summer is always possible but as the season advances it looks less probable.

An exception to the meteorological gloom in France is the Mediterranean rim and, according to my daughter in Rome, the middle of Italy is enjoying a torrid summer.

[Robin Garr]

I am very sceptical about the article's report of excellent quality. In any year it is much too soon to say.

I always ignore quality estimates in articles like this, Tim.

I think Dale's comments are on target: Early harvest certainly doesn't equate to excellent quality. Many of us remain befuddled by 2003 despite some critical acclaim. It's hard to see 2007, with its even crazier weather, producing a great classic vintage, but as you say, it's just too soon to know.

I had heard that many regions were almost completely devastated by the rains and rot and that it was going to be difficult to make any wine let alone wine of the century in many places.