WTN: 2002 Bordeaux, 2006 Gruner Veltliner

Friday we invited one of my assistants home for dinner. We started with mackerel rilletes and Champagne from night before, then went to vegetable soup (it was a bizarrely cool rainy day) before the main course of chicken with figs. Main course wine was the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Grüner Veltliner. This year's version has a rich full style that stands up well to the chicken; ripe yellow fruit with a touch of French lentils. Good acidity to balance the sweet fruit ripeness. A base end bottling punching above its weight. B+

Saturday Betsy planned on making a lamb schnitzel with a mint-horesradish from a recipe offered as a pairing to blaufrankisch. But butcher had closed, and she settled for loin chops rather than some leg slices. She decided to give up on frying, we just grilled the chops and served with the sauce (plus grilled corn and potato salad). I had no blaufrankish, decided to ignore sauce and just get an inexpensive Bordeaux for the chops. Decided to try the 2002 Domaine de Valmengaux (Bordeaux AC). At first I wondered if I was going to be able to drink this- a real whammy of oak was unsettling. It settled down enough to be drinkable - sweet dark berry fruit, vanilla, lots of density for a Bdx AC. The redeeming factor to not make it a poster child for the excesses of internationalization a la Reignac was a solid core of acidity. Tannins light and ripe. B-

I should say while a B- Bordeaux would not normally be a buy again for me, in this case Betsy said she really liked it. So I'll get more- at $11 I'm happy to buy anything she likes.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

"A base end bottling punching above its weight."

Great descriptor, Dale. I haven't seen that phrase before.

Thanks. Bob

[David M. Bueker]

In Austria 2006 almost everything is a step above its weight class. I'm buying a bunch. While it's pricier, the Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Heiligenstein is my Austrian Riesling of the vintage (outside the overpriced Wachau).

I really liked the 2005 version of the Schloss Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Grüner Veltlineras an inexpensive very refreshing variety-expressive wine. The 2006 seems richer and riper, also very good though quite different. I plan to buy more. I'll definitely have to try the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Heiligenstein.

Charles

• 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburger - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (7/31/2007)
  Very fresh and refreshing though a very ripe face of GV, like a tropical vegetable garden. Good acidity of course.
• 2005 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburger - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (7/14/2007)
  Major in cress, minor in black pepper. Refreshing, interesting, full of varietal character. Best drunk soon.
• 2005 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburger - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (8/22/2006)
  Delicious. Incredibly fresh and refreshing but full of real varietal character including black pepper that adds to invigorating impression. Great QPR.

Blimey, have to buy some of these that are on the local shelf downtown!!!

Blimey, have to buy some of these that are on the local shelf downtown!!!

Here's another voice for the wine, Bob. Yes, it's a QPR winner and not to be missed if you like GV on the riper side.

Mark Lipton