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WTN: whites triumph over reds (2 Spanish, 3 French)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: whites triumph over reds (2 Spanish, 3 French)

by Dale Williams » Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:27 am

Saturday we went over to friends to admire their beautifully landscaped backyard, and to have dinner. A fun group gathered on the terrace (hot day, but lots of shade and greenery made the evening comfortable), and had much food and wine.

with grilled scallops, gorgonzola/onion pizza, charcuterie:

2006 Martin Codax Albariño (Rias Baixas)
Lighter styled, crisp, nice on a warm night. Pear and peach fruit, but more dominated by the spine of acidity, and with some chalky minerals on finish. I like, but a little more midpalate verve would help, just a tad dilute. B

2006 Pepiere Muscadet
My first try of the '06, whew, I can drink my '05s with peace of mind, knowing I like replacement. Beautifully evocative of the seashore, a touch of salinity and a mineral core of seashell and limestone. Retried later in evening after the reds, more fruit emerges. I like. B+/A-

with skirt steak, sausages, grilled vegetables, potato salad, green beans:

1994 Beausejour Duffau (St Emilion)

I decanted this about an hour before we went over, it was probably back in the bottle for a couple hours before serving. I've had mixed experiences with this wine, this wasn't one of the better showings. At first it was all tannins, with some thin red fruit and a slight off-aroma- not corked, not brett, but a slightly medicinal aroma that danced around edges, eventually fading away. I wish the tannins would have faded away, this seemed rough all night. But the fruit flavors did amplify, with blackcurrant and plums; the secondary aromas morphed into an attractive mix of leather and tobacco. If the tannins were less aggressive I would have really liked this after some time, as it was a B (C+ on opening).

2004 Alaia (Castilla y Leon)
This is one dirty wine. I consider myself pretty brett-tolerant, but this has more chickenshit than my grandfather's barnyard. Some dark fruit and a little vanilla-oak note. Revisited later, still too bretty, fruit profile seems ripe yet there is a little vegetal green note. This is not a buy, even under $10. C+

2004 La Brasserie Syrah (I think this was VdP d'Oc)
Hey, a competitor for the Alaia. Thin, sharp, with no Syrah character. This tastes like overcropped and underripe Merlot. C

I went back to the whites, and enjoyed them (and the evening) immensely.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency
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Matt Richman

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Re: WTN: whites triumph over reds (2 Spanish, 3 French)

by Matt Richman » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:00 am

Those 1994 Bordeaux can be hard wines. Brian H said he has had success giving the 94 Leo Poyferre three or four hours of air.
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Re: WTN: whites triumph over reds (2 Spanish, 3 French)

by Dale Williams » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:13 pm

I like my wines harder than Brian, I give my '94 Poyferre (one of my favorite wines of the vintage) 2 hours in decanter before serving. :D

This wasn't bad, and I still think this is one of the better St Emilions of the vintage. Of course, that's faint praise. Unlike some vintages, I don't see a clear left-right advantage in 1994- Pomerols are maybe my favorite, while St Em vies with St Estephe and Marguax for my least favorite.

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