2005 Tangent Winery Pinot Gris Paragon Vineyard Edna Valley California. 13.5% alcohol. $7.50 a glass at Endless Vines.
Pale yellow color, clear hue, lovely fruit aroma with mineral and light spice notes, and just a bit of pine resin, very good fruit tastes with mineral, spice and pine notes, medium mouth feel, very good acidity, medium fruit and acid finish. A great match with smoked Alaskan salmon and crackers, where the fruit of the wine was a perfect counterpoint for the saltiness of the salmon. No EGA. 3*+.
Winery: http://www.tangentwines.com
Varietal Origin
Originating in Burgundy, Pinot Gris is one of the best known mutations of Pinot Noir. It was first grown amongst the Pinot Noir vines and harvested as a field blend. This “white” varietal added a touch of softness and acidity to round out the tannins of the red Pinot Noir. Sometime during the middle ages, Pinot Gris spread to other countries including Switzerland, Hungary, Germany and Turkey. It also was planted in the Alsace region back in France. During its travels, it was given the Hungarian name of Tokay. In 1980, the European Economic Community mandated that it be called by its correct name, bringing the true varietal back to the forefront.
No matter where it’s grown, Pinot Gris berries are colored anywhere from grayish-blue to brownish-pink. And as though it remembers its roots, Pinot Gris leaves are identical to Pinot Noir. Well-loved in Alsace, its depth and richness make it reminiscent of a complex white Burgundy, where it has become a sanctioned blender under the name of Pinot Beurot.
Pinot Gris is known as Malvoise in both the Loire of France and in Switzerland. It is widely planted in Germany, where it is called Rulander, and also in Italy, where it goes by the widely-adopted California name of Pinot Grigio. It can also be found in Austria, Slovenia, Moravia and Romania.
California Modern Day
Improved clonal selection seems to be invigorating enthusiasm in New Zealand, but in California, impact of Pinot Gris is limited thus far. Rather than following the lead of larger producers who are growing and harvesting grapes from the Central Valley and calling the finished wine Pinot Grigio, tangent chooses to stick to the drier Alsatian style. This wine is meant for the table, to be enjoyed at mealtime.