by Manuel Camblor » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:36 am
Ah, Argentine Malbec... I guess better late than never to this thread.
A couple of years ago I took a trip to Buenos Aires that proved full of atrocious revelations, winewise. I had been a beleiver in the "promise" of Argentine wines, particularly those made with Malbec and, as far as I'd been able ot find samples, those made with the beautifully fragrant white variety Torrontés. But what I found on that trip of Argentina was a pointy freak show of wood and spoofulation. I could sense there might have been good material in many wines, but the vast majority of them were so manipulated and wooded that they were little beyond silicone tit implants in an oaken coffin.
I think I may have tried more than a hundred wines and actually liked six. That the majority of the offensive ones were red was almost inevitable, isnce any number of excellent meals I had in Buenos Aires consisted of red-wine-loving foodstuffs.
This said, I have continued to sample Malbecs here and there over the past few years and found some pleasant surprises. The wines of Achaval Ferrer, while not especially thrilling, can be quite tasty and are not over-the-top in terms of new oak, alcohol, or other baddies. And, of course, there's the magnificent Malbec "Estrella" from Weinert. If you can spare $75-100 for the bottle of the 1977, which is still around over here, it's the best reference point I can think of for what Argentine Malbec can be.
And at the cheap end of things... Josie and I have been going to Lamaze classes over the past five weeks. These classes tend to bore me to pieces and only serve the purpose of furthering my doubts about how to deal with the by-now rapidly approaching arrival of the Camblor twins. But there's a plus side... A litrtle Argentine restaurant on 75th and 1st Av. called La Hacienda Argentina, where they do some very nice sweetbreads and can burn a mean bife de chorizo. Since Josie's not partaking, I'm condemned to the by-the-glass end of things. I was pleasantly surprised, on the last visit to the restaurant, by a clean little Mlabec from a producer named Budini. Very modestly oaked, with good acidity. A fresh, lively and structured little red to wash down bloody beef. Of course, one of our Argentina experts will probably jump up and say it's some insufferable industrial crap made in some factory and that I should go back and try some obscenely-priced bottle from one of the pointy producers if I want "real Malbec splendor". But this Budini was cheap, cheerful and food-friendly. And there is, in my view, amazing merit in that.
Best,
LL