Wine Focus: Open that Bottle MONTH ... EXTENDED!

[Jenise]

[It was utter magic when it was released, as was La Tour Blanche. I blew through most of my 12 bottles in the first 18 months. It's a totally different wine now, but still amazing.

I bought a case each of 2001 Rieussec, La Tour Blanche, and Suideraut. I had enough late-80s Sauternes that I managed to keep my paws off of the 2001s. Sounds like it's time to open a few.

-Paul W.

Speaking of Suduirat (one, or neither of us, is spelling this right ), I got to taste the '19 yesterday. Because there's no Bordeaux Expo this year, French wineries are sending samples and a friend of mine is the fine wine buyer for wine.com and he left the bottles (several, but most notably this and the '18 Pichon Baron) out in a secure private location for several of us to drop in and try yesterday. All were full bottles, though some hand labled. I know for a fact I've never tasted a pre-release Sauternes before. And having done so, it occurs to me that I have no idea how to assess such an infant. It's like looking at a 3 month old baby and trying to decide if it's going to turn into Marilyn Monroe or Ethel Mertz. Sugar way up in front, and everything else lurking pretty far away. It was the only Sauternes in the group so didn't even have another sample to test.

[Jenise]

Will say that I had a 2009 Rieussec awhile ago that was fantabulous - hard to keep the corkscrew off things like that while waiting for maturity (mine, or the wine's)

I own two of them. Bought from same source at the same time, but quite a difference in color between them. Presume I'll open the darkest one first, when I do.

We both got it wrong. The Chateau itself spells it Suduiraut.

-Paul W.

Presume I'll open the darkest one first, when I do.

Is that the one you cellared over the heat register....?

And let me take the opportunity to ask a question I have pondered for years - why do some varietals change colour quite differently if grown in Europe than if grown in North America?

I have old German Rieslings that with sufficient age become amber coloured. I have California Riesling of similar age that has become so dark brown that you can't see through it. There has to be an explanation, biochemically speaking - and biochemists hanging out here?

[Jenise]

Bill, they showed up like that! I should have returned them.

I've seen that difference too. Usually called white or Jo'berg riesling when intended as a dessert wine. Chateau St. Jean, for one, which is at least one of what I think you own. I had some long ago, and the color changed quite early.

[David M. Bueker]

If it has more botrytis it will get much darker much faster. The Navarro CSLH bottlings turn almost black, but are still amazing.

I opened a 2001 La Tour Blanche last night (see tasting note elsewhere). Dave, I can see why you blew through most of your bottles at first release. This is amazing Sauternes. D'Yquem still stands alone on the peak, but this ain't too far off. I hadn't realized 2001 was such a good vintage in Sauternes/Barsac.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

It's a scary good vintage. If I had bought 10X as much it might have been enough, and I bought the equivalent of 5 12 bottle cases of half bottles of 2001 Sauternes.

David, that Jadot sounds lovely. I used to drive out to the MA Table and Vine store when I was in the Burlington area on business trips. Two hour drive, but I figured I was getting reimbursed for the gas. I loved the drive. I remember listening to a great Mekons live album one time.

I had this yesterday, which I didn't open just because of Corona, but because, right before all this started, we refurnished the house and I wound up with a smaller fridge than I had before. So anything I don't really need to age, I'm drinking up. And I can usually enjoy a young Burgundy.

Domaine Olivier Guyot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Fuées, 2013

Even after a time in glass, the nose still shows earth and iron that are more akin to Morey than Chambolle, while the palate has a moreish, sultry softness that contrasts nicely with the persistent tannins and acidity. It's a long, deep, detailed wine, with an open-ended structure that frames the fruit in mid-palate but allows it to unfold on the finish. It drinks like a Chambolle-Musigny and after two hours, the nose starts to show the floral accouterments you'd expect from a Premier Cru from the village. A solid plus plus Premier Cru. (

[David M. Bueker]

2001 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Nahe (6/6/2020)
Saw that this bottle was a bit of a leaker, and had a couple inches of ullage, so time to open.

Yeah, right, not to worry again. It’s fresh, flavorful and absolutely delicious. Lots of peach fruit, and it’s married to tropical pineapple and lychee elements. After a powerful hit of flavor on s mid-palate explodes to a higher level. It’s mouthfilling, sweet, balanced, bright, zippy, salty, spicy, fruity and endlessly long. Where Prüm to me represents an archetype of Mosel Auslese, this wine to me represents that ideal for the Nahe. It straddles the line between power and elegance, conveying the essence of the grape and the soil. Even from half bottle it has decades of life, and room for development.

[Jenise]

Here's one that meets all the criteria for OTB: it's not actually a rare bottle in the world or a great vintage, but when is a properly aged Burgundy anything but special? This was my last bottle of six I've enjoyed since 2013 and therefore the hardest one to part with. But its turn came last night when a handful of fresh morels combined with sauteed asparagus inside a buckwheat crepe, and man was that a perfect match.

2003 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chênes Carteaux Pinot Noir
Decanted an hour before serving. Garnet color, leathery aromas, earth and cherry on the palate. Odd progressioon in that fruit and tannins traded places several times before we drained the bottle, but overall a very nice experience.

Here's one that meets all the criteria for OTB: it's not actually a rare bottle in the world or a great vintage, but when is a properly aged Burgundy anything but special? This was my last bottle of six I've enjoyed since 2013 and therefore the hardest one to part with. But its turn came last night when a handful of fresh morels combined with sauteed asparagus inside a buckwheat crepe, and man was that a perfect match.

2003 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chênes Carteaux Pinot Noir
Decanted an hour before serving. Garnet color, leathery aromas, earth and cherry on the palate. Odd progressioon in that fruit and tannins traded places several times before we drained the bottle, but overall a very nice experience.

Might not be the fanciest or most expensive Burgundy, but I would guess it's somewhat rare these days. I don't even see a lot of Gouges at retail for recent vintages, but maybe I should check a broader range of retailers.

Either way, sounds like a nice time and a great food match.

[David M. Bueker]

The last bottle of a good batch is always "that bottle."

[Jenise]

Might not be the fanciest or most expensive Burgundy, but I would guess it's somewhat rare these days. I don't even see a lot of Gouges at retail for recent vintages, but maybe I should check a broader range of retailers.

I bought them on release. Six of these and six of a different property from 2002, and I still have some of those as I expected it to be the more lasting vintage. Only $27 ea. Sigh.

Hey Jenise, your reply to Pat about that Bookwalter 2007 needing to be consumed soon as 2007 was not an "ager" prompted my question. I have a single bottle of 2007 Sorella? Do you think I need to open it soon?

[Jenise]

Jim, Bookwalter doesn't really make long-haul wines. Some might go more distance than others, but I'd be wary of testing the limits in a softer vintage like 2007.

Andrew Will's Sorellas, however, are made for cellaring. This winery is experiencing something of a resurgence, btw. Founder/winemaker Chris Comarda has battled depression since losing his wife to breast cancer some years back, and it showed in the consistency of the wines. Their son has recently taken over the winemaking and the wines are back on form.

[David M. Bueker]

So a little twist to “open that bottle” for us tonight. We opened another bottle of the Dönnhoff Hermannshohle Auslese, but for some reason the solid case we bought in 2002 had 2 different bottlings in it. Last night’s was AP#17, and tonight’s was AP#18. Two completely different wines. Tonight’s bottle was loaded with botrytis honey and spice which dominated the fruit. It was delicious, but both of us preferred the more elegant AP#17 of the prior night. Fun to do a direct comparison though.

I have so many single or two bottles kept back for special occasions, that I don't know where to begin - Sassicaia 95, Barolo Monfortino 90, some Rousseau and Vogüé Burgundies, Chave and Faurie Hermitage, Huet 1971 moelleux, Pichon-Lalande 66, 79, 89, Ducru 70, 75, 86, Haut-Brion 75, Blandy's Sercial Madeira 66, Opus One, Montelena........

My first choice for accompanying last night's lamb was the Sassicaia but the two bottles were buried under others which I didn't want to disturb. As an alternative, the Opus One was visible and easily accessible so here goes -

1994 Opus One - USA, California, Napa Valley (07/06/2020)
I have been waiting for a suitable occasion to open this famous Californian and some succulent pré salé lamb on the menu seemed a good opportunity. Upon opening the bottle exuded a strong fruity and oaky aroma but happily the latter had calmed down by the time the meal started. This was a big full wine showing rich mature fruit, some secondary development, velvety texture with a creamy patina, decent acidity and a firm finish with ripe enrobés tannins still perceptible on the decently long finish. However there was a slightly confected and synthetic seeming overtone to the aromas which prevent me from placing this at the summit of my Mount Olympus of Californian memories alongside Mondavi's Reserve, Dominus and Ridge Montebello. Very good, though.
Posted from CellarTracker

[Jenise]

Tim, that pretty much sums the way I feel about Opus One. The wines are damned good, but they don't have much soul. I've always presumed that my feeling that way had a lot to do with being really turned off by the winery's vibe--it's the snobbiest winery I've ever been to (though Domaine Serene in Oregon would be a close second, and there's no one in third place). It's reassuring that your more objective take on the wines ends up in pretty much the same place.

[David M. Bueker]

Opus One - the wine, is just as polished as Opus One - the winery. Lots of folks love it though.

[Jenise]

David, back in 2003 I went to a dinner at Patina in L.A.--12 Bordeaux fanatics, 12 bottles. All the 2000 First Growths plus "the best of the rest". Someone threw in an Opus One. Voting at the end of the night was interesting--the Opus got three first place votes, and all three of those voters chose Lynch Bages as their #2. The seduction of sweet fruit even to those who claimed not to be so swayed made an impression I've never forgotten.

[David M. Bueker]

Similarly, I was an attendee with a group of committed "anti-Parker palates" when the 2000 Bordeaux came out. We tasted 30 of them blind. My favorite was (and remains) Pichon Baron. The group winner was Pavie-Macquin. Egg meet face.

[Jenise]

Fortunately at the Patina tasting I got out unscathed--the Latour was my favorite.

Btw, I got to taste a sample of the '18 Pichon Baron this week. Made me aware that I have no idea how to taste so young a Bordeaux. I had hoped it would bring back taste memories of my first ever Pichon Baron, a 1990 right about the time the Speck made it their WOTY--whenever that was. It did not.

[David M. Bueker]

The style/era of 1990 Bordeaux is dead and buried.