April Wine Focus - Spring in Alsace

2007 Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Grand Cru Furstentum
$43.00

Very different from my CFE experience, which for good or ill will color things for a while. Similar price range, markedly different wines. This wine is rather jolly and seems to say "oh go on have another glass". Very aromatic, with braeburn apple and that petrol like nose. I keep using this petrol term even though it really doesn't smell of petrol, like many I just can't think of another terrestrial comparison. There's some fruit to the nose (star fruit?). Very nicely mannered mineral, lemon/acid on the tongue. It has, as Sir Paul would say, a long and winding finish. I'm very curious to try the same vintage wine from the Schlossberg site which is supposed to be more mineral and less full round jolly, which I guess means more Albert Camus or somesuch.

WTN: 2003 Pierre Sparr Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling
Brilliant medium gold, intense bright fruit with scents of cinnamon and diesel that hang on the glass.
Mouth filling fruit comes first and bold, dried apricots soaked in brandy, lemons and lavender balanced by a bracing acidity and mineral backbone. Long lingering dry finish. Excellent with the soft cheese, cured meats and fruit plate.

Michael

WTN: 2003 Pierre Sparr Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling
Brilliant medium gold, intense bright fruit with scents of cinnamon and diesel that hang on the glass.
Mouth filling fruit comes first and bold, dried apricots soaked in brandy, lemons and lavender balanced by a bracing acidity and mineral backbone. Long lingering dry finish. Excellent with the soft cheese, cured meats and fruit plate.

Michael

"Bracing acidity"? I wonder how Sparr achieved that in 2003?

[David M. Bueker]

WTN: 2003 Pierre Sparr Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling
Brilliant medium gold, intense bright fruit with scents of cinnamon and diesel that hang on the glass.
Mouth filling fruit comes first and bold, dried apricots soaked in brandy, lemons and lavender balanced by a bracing acidity and mineral backbone. Long lingering dry finish. Excellent with the soft cheese, cured meats and fruit plate.

Michael

"Bracing acidity"? I wonder how Sparr achieved that in 2003?

Electrodes on the bottle?

2007 Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Grand Cru Furstentum
$43.00

Very different from my CFE experience, which for good or ill will color things for a while. Similar price range, markedly different wines. This wine is rather jolly and seems to say "oh go on have another glass". Very aromatic, with braeburn apple and that petrol like nose. I keep using this petrol term even though it really doesn't smell of petrol, like many I just can't think of another terrestrial comparison. There's some fruit to the nose (star fruit?). Very nicely mannered mineral, lemon/acid on the tongue. It has, as Sir Paul would say, a long and winding finish. I'm very curious to try the same vintage wine from the Schlossberg site which is supposed to be more mineral and less full round jolly, which I guess means more Albert Camus or somesuch.

Interesting, I love Albert Mann and his Furstentum Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are my personal Alsace faves.

Well, I'm thinking it's been ages since I've tried Trimbach, since it's not imported, and Deiss and Weinbach are priced out of my range, so maybe Albert Mann has wound up a sort of default, but it's a pretty terrific default.

My note for the Gewurtz, from a few months ago:

Albert Mann, Furstenstum Grand Cru, Gewurztraminer, Vieilles Vignes, 2007

This is some Gewurtz and, before I mention where it goes beyond the varietal checklist, I want to say that it has enough acidity to lend focus to the usual intensity of extract that the grape always offers. Having said that, the checklist: rose petals, litchi, spices. Then a mellow, yet complex, overlay of minerals that I find as regal as anything coming from my favorite Germany vineyards. The palate has a complex, saline aftertaste of great pedigree. Fine, fine, fine.

Yes Tim...
guess you did not notice that the bottle itself was designed by Tesla.

Interesting, I love Albert Mann and his Furstentum Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are my personal Alsace faves.

Well, I'm thinking it's been ages since I've tried Trimbach, since it's not imported, and Deiss and Weinbach are priced out of my range, so maybe Albert Mann has wound up a sort of default, but it's a pretty terrific default.

The Fustentum Pinot Gris is one of my faves too. It's interesting that the Weinbach is priced so much higher than the Mann. It's a bit more, but not that extreme here. Most of the Deiss stuff is priced very high here, or at least what I've encountered.

We had some friends over yesterday and got through a lot of bottles including these two. Unfortunately I was (and still am) handicapped by a respiratory virus which exaggerates the impression of acids and bitters (tannins and alcohol burn) . But the two Alsatians at the beginning of the evening actually benefited from this, I think.

Crémant d'Alsace Cuvée Prestige - René Muré, Rouffach -Alc.12% - (€14), made from Pinot Auxerrois 35%, Riesling 30%, Pinot-Gris 20%, Pinot Noir 10% and Pinot Blanc 5% and disgorged on Aug 30, 2010. This cuvée is my standby bubbles other than Champagne and best Vouvray. It is usually quite round with good decently complex fruit and a hint of sweetness which pleases those who find tartness in a lot of bubbles; this time I was more conscious of lively acidity which was a plus for me and made the wine seem to acquire added elegance.

PS (24 hours later): the remains of the second bottle, disgorged in Nov 2010, seem even better with a still persistent fine bubble and a moreish minerality, which I didn't remember or note from yesterday, making it an excellent pairing with goat cheese.

Vin d'Alsace Riesling Kaefferkopf 2000 - Meyer-Fonné - Alc.13% came over as a lovely Riesling at its peak showing complex but airy aromas of minerals, white flowers with touches of fine spice and a fine quite full harmonious palate with a silky mouth-feel, good length, crisp acidity. Some RS gave slightly burnished honey notes which balanced the acidity nicely for my impaired palate. The assembled company was full of praise for this wine and my TN of just over a year ago also confirms that my pleasure was not just palate aberration.

The following reds, however, Poujeaux 96, Faugères (St.Emilion) 99 and La Cabanne 98, all seemed too tough for me but Germaine and my guests said they liked them a lot (Moulin-Pey-Labrie 98 was corked; yes, I could pick that up .)

[David M. Bueker]

I popped open a bottle of 1998 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg (the regular, not any of the upper cuvees), only to find it as dark yellow and oxidized as the bottle of ZH I opened last week.

I have one more which I may check on soon, as well as a '98 Albert Mann Riesling Schlossberg.

Cue the ominous music.

Not going to happen.

I fully understand that it is not going to happen David, yet hope springs eternal!

WTN: 2006 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht – Pinot Gris Calcaire

About 2 months ago I bought this and another Alsace PG. I was looking for something as a standard, something to compare side-by-side with the two vintages of PG that I have made. Suffice it to say that I missed by a mile. Deep gold, almost amber. My first thought was “oxidized?” which didn’t seem right, as the natural cork was in excellent condition. The legs seemed to indicated a thick viscosity and high alcohol. So, I stuck my nose in the glass – honey, melon, peaches. A long, full finish, with sweetness and a slight bit of tannin, but low in acidity. This wine reminded me of a Rulander TBA I had a few years ago, but less sweet and less intense. I guess it to be about 4% RS and high alcohol, over 14%. Upon further close review of the bottle, it is listed at 14% ABV and Indice 2. I now understand Tim’s rant. This is a very enjoyable wine on it’s own and I like it a lot, but not at all what I was expecting. It did not pair well with my pan-fried haddock, nor did it in any way help me out to see if my PG is up to snuff. My 2010, is bone dry, about 11.3% ABV and has a slight copper cast. I will open the other Alsace PG next week and will read the label in detail before opening.

Howie, I am in the same boat as DB with regards of pinot gris to compare to yours.I recently found a Castle Rock pg at just under $10 and at the price it is a bargain. nice peachy lemony fruit with no rs at all. I liked it enough that I will keep some around this summer for sipping. I also believe it will pair well with such food as roast chicken from the grill. Haven't opened your dry pg yet, but will soon as I plan to grill roast a chicken tomorrow.

[David M. Bueker]

I popped open a bottle of 1998 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg (the regular, not any of the upper cuvees), only to find it as dark yellow and oxidized as the bottle of ZH I opened last week.

I have one more which I may check on soon, as well as a '98 Albert Mann Riesling Schlossberg.

Cue the ominous music.

So I opened my other bottle of the 1998 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg, and it was fan-freaking-tastic! Lemon, cream, herbs, stone - wow, what a wine. A great pairing with our Thai-style grilled chicken and roasted cauliflower, and very tasty on its own as well. Just plain yummy!

Alsace Riesling grand cru Brand (Turckheim) 1999 - Domaine Zind Humbrecht - Alc.14.5% - (€51 for 2007!!). ZH were not yet using their sweetness indice (1-5) when this wine was made but fortunately I remembered from the initial tasting that it was quite sweet and so was able to pair it adequately, if not brilliantly, with the food (turbot with Hollandaise sauce and asparagus). No rant is in order as ZH have since seen the light about informing the customer; I would rate this as Indice 4 = sweeter than demi-sec but not quite moelleux or VT richness.

C: Surprisingly deep gold.
N: Subdued at first but developing beautifully (and remaining so from the bottle 15 hours later) into a focussed complex of quince, pears, honey, minerals and a dash of juicy citric acid.
P: A certain baroque magnificence here but not up to quality of the nose. The same aromas were there but there was a marked but non cloying burnished sweetness with a little petrol in the background, just enough smooth acidity for balance but not for exhilaration and a structured finish in which alcohol no doubt played a part; 16/20+.

Digression on sweetness in Alsace. A number of Alsatian producers congratulate themselves on letting their wines find their own natural level of sweetness. 1999 was a case where Brand turned out distinctly sweet but in another vintage it might well be a lot drier. I can imagine that, if ZH had attempted to vinify this one dry, the result would have been an undrinkable monster of some 16° alcohol. Nevertheless other producers, notably Trimbach, seem to be able to produce wines which are reliably dry without alcoholic exaggeration. How do they do it?

Nevertheless other producers, notably Trimbach, seem to be able to produce wines which are reliably dry without alcoholic exaggeration. How do they do it?

I don't drink enough Trimbach to engage in the detailed discussions that they usually spark. But the logic behind this perspective supports those who criticize Trimbach for spoofing the wines, i.e. having a pre-conceived notion of what the wines should be that dominates the particular vintage conditions. Obviously all producers have styles, but as you noted the one at Trimbach is particularly strong. And I have no firsthand knowledge here, but I'm guessing it starts with how they tend the vines from year to year.

I'm sure others have more knowledge.

[David M. Bueker]

I don't drink enough Trimbach to engage in the detailed discussions that they usually spark. But the logic behind this perspective supports those who criticize Trimbach for spoofing the wines, i.e. having a pre-conceived notion of what the wines should be that dominates the particular vintage conditions.

Except that their wines are distinctly different from year to year - just dry. The rise in sweetness in Alsatian wines roughly coincides with the fad of "phenolic ripeness." Somehow I get the sense that the Trimbachs just pick the grapes when they think they will make good wine. If i head across the border to Germany I know of some producers (e.g. Donnhoff) that do not mind if there are some greenish berries in the mix alongside the golden yellow ones. There are other producers (e.g. Diel) who wait for uniformly golden berries. Guess who makes the richer, sweeter wines year after year. None of this is spoof.

None of this is spoof.

Hey I tend to agree with you, although in terms of Trimbach I don't have an opinion either way as I don't drink much of the wines. But I was just laying out the argument as I have heard people rail against Trimbach.

[David M. Bueker]

None of this is spoof.

Hey I tend to agree with you, although in terms of Trimbach I don't have an opinion either way as I don't drink much of the wines. But I was just laying out the argument as I have heard people rail against Trimbach.

Understood, but of course it undermines the credibility of the spoof-spewers when they basically re-define what is spoof depending on what wine they decide to dislike, that day.

I read that Olivier Humbrecht has himself recognised that the quest of ever more ripeness and more sugars is a false route and is seeking to revert to mostly drier wines. I guess that a lot of this must depend on how the vineyards are worked as well as harvest dates and grape sorting criteria.

At the other end of France, Gérard Gauby claims to have achieved a better coincidence in time between sugar and phenolic ripeness by working his vines so that their roots dig deeper. Recent vintages are certainly more elegant and digestible than those ten tears or so ago.

Understood, but of course it undermines the credibility of the spoof-spewers when they basically re-define what is spoof depending on what wine they decide to dislike, that day.

FWIW (and to add even more useless caveats), I was merging communities. Not sure how much anti-Trimbach vitriol I've seen on the boards but I've heard an earful from French wine merchants who have a fair amount of knowledge and but just don't like the Trimbach style (and have no connection to the word spoof). I've just never had the time to drink enough of them to form my own opinion.

Understood, but of course it undermines the credibility of the spoof-spewers when they basically re-define what is spoof depending on what wine they decide to dislike, that day.

FWIW (and to add even more useless caveats), I was merging communities. Not sure how much anti-Trimbach vitriol I've seen on the boards but I've heard an earful from French wine merchants who have a fair amount of knowledge and but just don't like the Trimbach style because they find it too technical and clean (and have no connection to the word spoof). I've just never had the time to drink enough of them to form my own opinion.

ZH and Trimbach use different clones and rootstocks, but the main difference is very simple: Trimbach harvests earlier and their yields are much bigger. If OH could get it into his head that he is harvesting way too late and also increase his yields, I would dearly like to taste his wines! That, in my mind, is more important than finding "natural" sulphur - scouring the slopes of volcanos, no less! - or copper. "Surely the plant will recognize copper made from another plant?" Eh, nope. Same atoms, I am afraid.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

[David M. Bueker]

ZH and Trimbach use different clones and rootstocks, but the main difference is very simple: Trimbach harvests earlier and their yields are much bigger

Eegads man! Earlier harvest??? High yields???

Rahsaan was right! Spoof! Spoof!

2007 Marc Tempe' Zellenberg Gewurztraminer. Anne Marie and Marc Tempe'. Uses biodynamic methods. Imported by Vintage '59 Imports LLC, Washington, DC. Paid $35.99 at 3Cups, Chapel Hill, NC. The Tempes have six small parcels (1.75 acres) of Gewurztraminer grapes in the foothills of the Vosges Mountains. Vines average nearly fifty years of age. Grapes are grown without chemical applications and are harvested by hand.
Deeper gold color than I was expecting. Slightly spritzig or frizzante when first poured. Intensely aromatic. Inially I experienced some tartness which causes a pucker, but later impressions were of slight sweetness. Has some weight and gravitas. Honey, ginger, florals?, touch of pear syrup. Tartness was one pronounced sensation while sweetness, almost to the point of being cloying, is the keynote of the next sip. Difficult to encompass and comprehend but I wine that I liked and that merits respect. I have a 2005 on hand that I purchased after tasting it at a Fayetteville Wine Society meeting in 2009 and possibly another 2007 or other vintage on hand.

While at 3Cups I also purchased a Domaine Leon Boesch Riesling Tradition, Alsace for $15.99. This wine was imported by Wine Without Borders, Durham, NC. I found it unexciting and uninteresting so don't have any notes other than that the first sip was pungent and penetrating on the nostril passages.

3Cups is an interesting shop that specializes in coffee, tea, wine and chocolates. While there I enjoyed a cup of a Peruvian coffee. One of the owners has a journalism background and writes rather thorough notes about the small producers whose wines they sell. You might find the website interesting: http://www.3cups.net/

Here is a sample description:

Clos du Gravillas 2007 Lo Vielh

France, Languedoc
2007
Price: $29.99
The history... The estate's story begins with Nicole. She came to plant Syrah, Cabernet ,and Mourvedre in the promising terroir of St. Jean de Minervois. Things got even more promising in 1999, when she began rehabilitating six acres of Carignan that was planted in 1911, and a small amount of Grenache Gris. Not surprisingly, wines made from these plantings are now the current stars of the estate's line-up.

Success... Over the last decade Clos du Gravillas has slowly grown. Nicole is now aided in her endeavor by John Bojanowski and their child Sacha. John is from Kentucky, and is a basketball fan. We'll attempt to book the Bojanowski clan for a wine dinner some March.... Their farm now sprawls across a massive 15 acres, and includes plantings of 13 different grapes. Keeping it human in scale has innumerable advantages for the consumer. Nicole and John work entirely organically. They vigorously prune their vines to keep yields low and flavors concentrated in the resulting wines. These vines get attention, they are tended in a way necessary to maintain health. It is the combination of healthy vines growing from healthy earth in a balanced ecosystem that brings forward the memorably alive and real flavors that make me crave these wines. They taste for real, authentic, a clear picture of true Minervois that needs no touch-ups.

I drank the 2005 Zellenberg a couple of years ago:

Maybe I just oughtta give up. Gewurztraminer is always going to be too heady for me to enjoy a stable relationship with, although I do enjoy an occasional fling. Having said that, this is a very good specimen for me, being somwhat lighter than usual. It starts with a classic Gewurtz nose, perhaps leaning more towards the litchi-flowery side, with a good helping of tropical fruit, rather than towards the spicier facets of the variety. The palate has very good acidity and ends on a crisp, mineral note, although the mid-palate is one again the grape's weak spot, displaying pink grapefruit that could use more texture and nuances. I think it has enough structure to age for a few more years and in that time might become more nuanced. (Apr. 5, 2009)