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Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Daniel Rogov wrote:Eric, Hi...
I wonder precisely where you see all the errors in my thinking.
Daniel Rogov wrote:3. With regard to the addition of sulfates, I believe a wine can still be considered organic if the addition does not raise the level of sulfates to one that is higher than the grape itself in fermentation is capable of producing.
Daniel Rogov wrote:
That, of course, within certain limits, those limits taking wine to what I might comfortably label as "un-natural". Something akin for example to molecular cuisine that takes food as far from its natural flavors, aromas and texture as the imagination can bear.
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Daniel Rogov wrote:Eric, Hi....
As to just why so many people are terrified by sulfites - that continues to elude me, as many foods contain natural sulfites. The percentage of the population showing allergy to sulfties remains rather small and indeed, if those people are seriously allergic to sulfites they should avoid wine and those various fruits and vegetables that contain them.
Best
Rogov
Daniel Rogov wrote:The only truly natural wine would be a cluster of grapes that grow somewhere on a wild vine, fall to the ground and ferment naturally. That wine would, of course, taste terrible, but that, my friends is the only truly natural wine. Is it not entirely possible that the search for "natural wine" is not merely an extension of the need of many to be politically and enviornmentally "correct"?
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Daniel Rogov wrote:
In an odd way, we seem to be debating over very little in the way of disagreement. I leave it to you to decide If you care for the proverbial and/or literal last word in our little discussion.
Best
Rogov
Jon Hesford wrote:I have a question. Does anyone know why a grower following ecological, sustainable practices but spraying a synthetic fungicide like Indar instead of a broad spectrum, organically-approved product like Microthiol Sulphur would not be considered "Natural" and not as wholesome as the organically-certified grower and is there any basis to that view?
Rahsaan wrote:Jon Hesford wrote:I have a question. Does anyone know why a grower following ecological, sustainable practices but spraying a synthetic fungicide like Indar instead of a broad spectrum, organically-approved product like Microthiol Sulphur would not be considered "Natural" and not as wholesome as the organically-certified grower and is there any basis to that view?
I don't know these two products but it sounds like you're asking about the legal definition and not the deeper subjective categories of 'natural' and 'wholesome'.
Brian Gilp wrote:I don't read Jon's question that way. I read it as asking why is sulfur acceptable but synthetic fungicide's not. I believe this does fall into the deeper subjective category of question what is natual. I only play at growing grapes but I do find it odd to note that the PPE restrictions when spraying sulfur are more restrictive than some of the "bad chemicals" and I know how sulfur adjusts the soil pH over time and have wondered myself about this question.
Hoke wrote:I'm not at all happy with the "Sustainable" category, because like "Natural" it is more about intention than specific procedures, and it really has nothing to do with wine quality.
Dave, why would your definition (or description) of Sustainable "really (have) nothing to do with wine quality", but your definition of "natural wine" assumes a statement of wine quality? One or the other, but not both.
Also, 'sustainable' has to do with grape growing (viticulture), whereas 'natural wine' has to do with both viticulture and wine. So they are not equal terms.
Daniel Rogov wrote:Since the term came into fashion, I have had a major problem with the concept of "natural wines". From the moment an agronomist determines in which direction to plant his vines, what trellising system will be used, how much if at all to cut back on yields, whether the grapes and later the wine will be organic or not (by any definition) and from the moment the grapes enter the winery until the bottling, a great deal is decided by people and not by nature.
The only truly natural wine would be a cluster of grapes that grow somewhere on a wild vine, fall to the ground and ferment naturally. That wine would, of course, taste terrible, but that, my friends is the only truly natural wine. Is it not entirely possible that the search for "natural wine" is not merely an extension of the need of many to be politically and enviornmentally "correct"?
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Dave Erickson wrote:Hoke wrote:I'm not at all happy with the "Sustainable" category, because like "Natural" it is more about intention than specific procedures, and it really has nothing to do with wine quality.
Dave, why would your definition (or description) of Sustainable "really (have) nothing to do with wine quality", but your definition of "natural wine" assumes a statement of wine quality? One or the other, but not both.
Also, 'sustainable' has to do with grape growing (viticulture), whereas 'natural wine' has to do with both viticulture and wine. So they are not equal terms.
You can go broke being "Sustainable."Agreed on your second statement: Sustainability has to do with agricultural practices only. Disagree on your first: "Natural" to me implies quality, although not necessarily in terms of organoleptics. As Nicolas Joly says, the wine must first be true before it is good. That is a radical position, I know, and speaking for myself, I've resisted it for a long time, being one of those whose evaluations of wines began and ended with the nose, tongue, and eyes. But I've been reading Monty Walden and he's getting to me.





Daniel Rogov wrote:That I have not encountered the Texier wines is not to my credit, I agree but with regard to the issue of "natural", I hold my ground.
It should go without saying that I am all in favor of organic farming. I am even enthusiastic about many of the people who practice biodynamic farming, not for the more metaphysical qua mystical aspects but for the evident respect they show for the soil and the vines. Going a step further, and as stated earlier in this thread, I have tasted quite a few biodynamic wines that have been superb. I have also tasted some that have been abysmal failures.
My argument reduces to the reality that from the moment we decide the direction in which our vines will be planted, the choice of a trellising system, and yes even to those biologically friendly methods we utilize in the vineyards, we have moved at least somewhat away from "the natural". Whether we decide to bring our grapes to the winery in small baskets, small plastic containers or in larger containers; the moment we expose those grapes to stainless steel; the moment we place the must in oak; all are steps away from "the natural".
Indeed, respect and attention devoted to how we relate to the soil and the vine is commendable. My only question is whether this respect is in and of itself a natural phenomenon or whether it is a part of human intervention. Perhaps I am being somewhat sticky on this point, but I cannot help but feel that from the moment men and women started cooking their meat, started using long-distance weapons in the hunt (e.g. hurling spears or using bows and arrows) cultivating fruits, vegetables and herbs, and discovered how to raise bread with the use of yeasts, we left the natural forever behind us. We may attempt to some extent (as clearly some winemakers have done and are doing) attempt to return to what we perceive as the natural. Alas, the many, many convolutions of the human cerebral cortex will never again allow us to return fully to that state.
More - I am neither condemning nor castigating those who move in what they perceive as the direction of "the natural". What I am doing is questioning what we consider truly natural. Unlike during the days of our Neanderthal predecesors on the planet, it is no longer possible to separate humankind from the environment. Whether we like it and/or approve of it, the two walk inexorably hand in hand and those hands can no longer be separated one from the other.
Best
Rogov
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Dave Erickson wrote:Why would--how could--humankind be separated from the environment? Are you saying humans aren't "natural"?
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
Daniel Rogov wrote:I would also argue that my choices of examples are not quite as random as one might think at first glance. I am merely utilizing examples given by such notables as Claude Levi Strauss, Umberto Eco and Margaret Mead
Daniel Rogov
Resident Curmudgeon
0
Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:10 am
Tel Aviv, Israel
...Noting what is unique about humans is not the same thing as noting what is un-natural about humans.
...All animals evolve and change their behavior over time in a symbiotic relationship with our changing environment.
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