Wine Focus May 2025 - GaMay and Philip the Bold

We've come a long way since 1395, when the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir, saying that Gamay wine was full "of a very great and horrible harshness." He insisted that the space be used for Pinot Noir, declaring that it produced a more elegant wine.

Can't say that he was entirely wrong, but there are some decent Gamays about. The only ones that make it into my cellar are French - producers like Lardy and Burgaud for example. I taste gamays from BC once in awhile out of interest for local product but remain underwhelmed to date.

[David M. Bueker]

There’s been a few delicious Gamay wines from California (ESJ!, Arnot-Roberts) but in general US Gamay has failed to grab me. Tried a couple from Oregon that were OK, but they were also $15 more than better bottles of Beaujolais.

[Jenise]

David, I picked up a Pax recently. Haven't opened it yet, but I feel hopeful!

[David M. Bueker]

David, I picked up a Pax recently. Haven't opened it yet, but I feel hopeful!

He probably has good instincts for the grape.

Several lovely glasses of 2023 Michel Tête Juliénas Tradition that were delicate, crisp, ripe and flavorful. I've struggled to understand this producer in the past (and just last week had a funky 05 at the Riesling/Beaujolais study) but this was all good.

[David M. Bueker]

Ooh. Don’t think I have had a Tete since maybe 2002.