Wine Focus March 2022 - Riesling is coming!

[Jenise]

Overall the Okanagan appears to be the best place in North America for Riesling. Shame that it's so tough to get the stuff in the USA.

It truly is. When you going back?

[Jenise]

Last night with swordfish steaks:

2017 Schieferkopf Par Michel Chapoutier Sylvaner Trocken-Sec Franken
Either this was a slightly off bottle, or the wine's starting to show it's age. What had been fresh Asian pear-apple notes a year ago are turning into all the flavors in a pear strudel.

[David M. Bueker]

Overall the Okanagan appears to be the best place in North America for Riesling. Shame that it's so tough to get the stuff in the USA.

It truly is. When you going back?

I suspect not until next year. Of course I have said that for three years now.

[David M. Bueker]

• 1998 Albert Mann Riesling Furstentum Vendanges Tardives - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (3/13/2022)
  Three years ago this wine was exactly on point. Now it has started to develop into “mature late harvest Riesling” without so much in the way of clear definition of place. I see this a lot with botrytis-influenced wines, where they veer towards the generic over time. It’s usually a tasty generic, as this is, but the featureless aspect leaves me wanting more. Should have drunk up this bottle when the other showed so well.

[Jenise]

Dave, how many times do we all say that, "Should have drunk this when the others were showing so well." Guilty.

Not in this case, though: 2014 Tantalus Vineyards Riesling Old Vines Okanagan Valley VQA.
Vibrant nose delivers margarita (yes, the cocktail), petrol, white nectarine, kaffir lime leaf and wet rocks all at once--POW. You find yourself leaning back instantly, thinking "what just happened?" White pepper and lions mane mushroom notes join the aromas on the palate and glide into a dry, lip-smacking acid finish that goes on for days. This could be immortal.

Could not have asked for better with last night's corned beef dinner. Loved it to death, and I think I should drink more wines like this, and yet: how many dishes could carry such a bold, invigorating wine? We don't eat corned beef every day.

2018 Falkenstein Krettnacher Ober Schäfershaus Spätlese "Fass Goldrichs" (AP #18)
This is from a barrel bottled specifically for a German retailer. Not sure about availability in the US, although some bottles have apparently been spotted in Nyc. Regardless of the distribution, it is delicious. Juicy herbal and smokey riesling stalk flavors at the moment, as it transitions into the aging process. There is thick 'dense' 2018 fruit, but also lively and intense minerality with the crystal clear Saar character. A lovely lovely wine. As expected.

[David M. Bueker]

Yum.

2020 Hermann Ludes Thörnicher Ritsch Spätlese trocken
A fresh clean verdant salty crunchy feather of a wine. Walking a lovely line between delicate and juicy, the tension and the texture is so fine and an incredibly drinkable delight. Perfect with ramson ravioli, spring herb ravioli, roasted mushrooms and sauteed baby spinach.

[David M. Bueker]

Loads of Ludes.

Sounds like something you would find at a Grateful Dead concert.

Loads of Ludes.

Sounds like something you would find at a Grateful Dead concert.

Ha!

Yes, I have bought a bunch of Ludes, multiple bottles of various 2020 cuvees. It has been well worth the investment, going from strength to strength. Always a nice thing.

[David M. Bueker]

All I have is some 2015 Ludes Auslese. It’s very good, but not exactly a regular option. I have mostly resisted the recent hype around Ludes, but you have me rethinking my position.

I have mostly resisted the recent hype around Ludes, but you have me rethinking my position.

I don't think I've seen the Ludes hype, although I know Lyle and Robert are importing them to the US and are both fans. But in general the wine geek 'next big thing' hype has a way of getting out of hand. I've now had 4 Ludes Kabinett and Spätlese bottlings in 2020 and they've all been really good, but that's just one vintage.

And of course it all depends on the style one wants on any given day. Ludes was initially recommended to me by the Berlin retailer who turned me on to Falkenstein, because his supply of Falkenstein has gotten tighter over the years and he thought there was a stylistic kinship. To some extent that is true, both have lots of refreshing clarity, but there's a bit more middle Mosel juicy body to Ludes.

And, since we're talking Falkenstein, I'm glad that folks are having fun with the wines, but some of that worship also strikes me as a bit over the top for what the wines are. So if the same thing is happening with Ludes, I could see that being annoying!

At the end of the day, we are spoiled for choice with great German wine, in so many different styles, at reasonable prices. I can't even begin to keep up with it all. So I branch out and explore a bit, but mainly just focus on enjoying the wines/producers that I do buy. Others' mileage may vary.

[David M. Bueker]

Yes, now that Falkenstein has become cult wine, Ludes is getting the hype.

I like Falkenstein. Some of their wines are riveting. They also have a number that are “meh.”

Overall it feels like people looking for the new, shiny thing.

My cellar is now quite depleted in Riesling, although it is probably my favourite white grape, alongside Chardonnay from Chablis and Champagne, Chenin from the Loire and G & P Manseng from Jurançon and Irouléguy. Alsace Riesling is available in wine shops and there are local cavistes stocking Agathe Bursin and Barmès-Buecher, both of which I like. However I don't get the impression that there is much local demand. As for Germans and Austrians, they are conspicuous by their near absence and Australian, Kiwi and US Riesling even more so. But I did come upon a Canadian, Caves Spring, and very good it was.

Here is a mature Alsatian, one of the few bottles left from my purchases in Belgium.

2002 Dirler-Cade Riesling Kessler Cuvée Cécile - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (19/03/2022)
My previous bottle was just over 6 years ago and I opined that it was probably at its peak. Yes, but although it is now showing signs of impending decline there are compensations in its more evolved flavours. Colour is now quite deep gold but there were no signs of oxidation on the nose and palate. The nose was initially very shy but opened up somewhat later. The palate was medium bodied and complex, not bone dry but perhaps more so than before, with plenty of white fruit, refined minerals, a little spice, fresh acidity with underlying "gras" but complexion was darker than I noted before and the varietally typical hydrocarbon notes more prominent. Backbone had an agreeable bitterness and there was good length. Very good.
Posted from CellarTracker

[David M. Bueker]

I have a lot of (more recent) Dirler in the cellar, but am not familiar with a Cuvée Cécile.

I have a lot of (more recent) Dirler in the cellar, but am not familiar with a Cuvée Cécile.

I just took another look at the label. There's no mention of Cuvée Cécile, just Grand Cru Kessler. This must be a finger error of mine when entering the bottles into CT.

[David M. Bueker]

I have a lot of (more recent) Dirler in the cellar, but am not familiar with a Cuvée Cécile.

I just took another look at the label. There's no mention of Cuvée Cécile, just Grand Cru Kessler. This must be a finger error of mine when entering the bottles into CT.

Got it.

I just looked in CT as well, and it only shows up for two vintages (none since 2004), so perhaps they don't make it anymore.

2014 Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Kapellenberg R Kab, Nahe.

9% alc, good natural cork, 020-15, served with a choice of Chinese take-out. Light gold in color floral white stonefruit. Ready to drink, nice sweetness and acidityu. Has a long finish, "lite and fresh" one taster thought.
** Chicken stuffed tofu w. black bean sauce. Also brisket w. chou-mein, bok choy and baby green beans w. xo sauce.

[Robin Garr]

Sibling to my previous post, this is Fritz Zimmer's Spätlese. Not quite as impressive as the previously posted Auslese, which makes sense; it's also $2 less and another real value for QPR. Not estate bottled - whaddya expect for the price> But I think both wines were surprisingly good Mosel Rieslings at a price that's hard to beat. Have any of you Riesling experts ever heard of Fritz Zimmer? I can't find a huge amount of info about the producer online.

Fritz Zimmer 2019 Mosel Riesling Spätlese ($14.99)

A step down the strict and detailed German ladder of ripeness from its Auslese sibling reported previously, Zimmer Mosel Riesling Spätlese is also a Prädikatswein, the top quality level for German wine. Clear and pale-gold, it breathes mixed citrus and pear aromas and a characteristic whiff of oily minerality that spells Riesling. Flavors mirror the nose in a sweet but refreshing flavor profile, lacking the impressive structure of its Auslese stablemate, but perhaps that is to be expected. Fresh, light acidity and stony minerality become more evident in the long, tart-sweet finish. Light 8% alcohol befits an aperitif or sipping wine. U.S. importer: Winesellers Ltd., Niles, Ill. (Feb. 28 , 2022)

FOOD MATCH: Pleasant sipped in its own as an aperitif or patio drink once warm weather returns, it's also easily tuned to a range of traditional German fare. It was delicious with a lunch of Beyond Meat bratwurst with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes.

WHEN TO DRINK: Quality Riesling can reward aging. I wouldn't hesitate to cellar it for five years.

VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com's $16 average U.S. retail came in a couple of dollars above my $15 local price. It's still a good value in this general price range.

WEB LINK:
Importer Winesellers Ltd. offers this good info sheet on the winery.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and compare prices for Fritz Zimmer Mosel Riesling Spätlese on Wine-Searcher.com.

Follow this Wine-Searcher link to read more about the Mosel valley and find listings for dozens of other wines of the region.

Read about Riesling and browse scores of wines made from this white grape at this Wine-Searcher link.

[David M. Bueker]

Sibling to my previous post, this is Fritz Zimmer's Spätlese. Not quite as impressive as the previously posted Auslese, which makes sense

Ok, I need to poke at why it makes sense? I am curious if this is a case of pradikatism.

[Robin Garr]

Sibling to my previous post, this is Fritz Zimmer's Spätlese. Not quite as impressive as the previously posted Auslese, which makes sense

Ok, I need to poke at why it makes sense? I am curious if this is a case of pradikatism.

Yeah, kinda. But tasting them both, I didn't need to look at the label to recognize that - in this case at least - the Auslese had balance and character that outstripped the lighter Spätlese, which actually came across as sweeter because of less acid balance. That's the way they came across to me, anyway.

[David M. Bueker]

That’s a reasonable explanation. We’ll give you a pass on this one.

[Robin Garr]

2020 Van Volxem Riesling Alte Reben was a great restaurant wine tonight. Juicy ripe rich-ish fruit (my 11 year old son smelled the glass and said it was fruitier than a neighboring glass of grauburgunder, which was correct), but still some Saar freshness. It's not a complex wine, but it does the restaurant job well.

That said, slightly off-topic for the thread, but the 2020 Gobelsburg Langenlois Grüner Veltliner was even more attractive. Another 'basic' wine, with great flavor interest, texture and snap for the restaurant table. So good for the occasion. But I digress...