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NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

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Re: NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

by Jenise » Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:16 pm

Another observation re the availability of WA wines: just got through combing through the online store of BPW--Blicker Pierce Wagner who are having a sitewide 25% off sale. 'Syrah' was one of the categories I searched. Only when I got here and saw this thread did I realize [thunk] that the syrah list consisted of ONLY California--plus Cayuse, comfortably nestled among the Albans and Sine Qua Nons at the low-oxygen $200 level I but stare at, though there were also reasonably priced things like Pax. Underscores the point I made earlier about how few outside Washington know any WA producers outside of Quilceda Creek and Cayuse (I should probably add Leonetti). Beyond our borders, middle and upper range retailers don't bother with anything else. Unwittingly helped by articles like Eric's, that won't change any time soon.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

by Bruce K » Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:51 pm

Jenise wrote:Underscores the point I made earlier about how few outside Washington know any WA producers outside of Quilceda Creek and Cayuse.


That's certainly true here in the D.C. area. Outside of the big mass market guys, plus L'Ecole #41, Washington state wines are thinly represented on store shelves and restaurant lists. I did find a couple of Gramercy bottlings at MacArthur once. I believe they carry Quilceda Creek, too. But little else. Which is why virtually all of my WA stash comes directly from the wineries. Thankfully (and thanks to my state senator who's now running for Congress), MD went from a felony to a legal shipping state.

What I don't know is how much the paucity of WA wines outside the Northwest is due to our bizarre and outmoded system of alcohol distribution and state laws, how much is due to lack of (or unfavorable) publicity for the wines, and how much is due to the fact that many WA producers sell out already year after year, and thus have no need to market to the nether regions of the country. Perhaps all of the above?
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Re: NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

by Jenise » Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:36 pm

Bruce, after reading your post I had to wonder, speaking of favorable publicity, when the last splashy big cover story (or something close) hit the Wine Spectator's pages and how that may have influenced the wines available in NYC. I was also wondering to myself if Harvey Steiman--and his new world sweet tooth--were still scoring WA wines for that magazine. Didn't find a direct answer to #1, but #2's a yes and some magazine had helpfully spotlighted the ten PNW wines that made the most recent Top 100, which were divided evenly between us and Oregon. Here they are.

2. Quilceda Creek Vintners 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $140
22. Gramercy Cellars 2012 The Deuce Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $52
28. Baer Winery 2012 Ursa, Columbia Valley, $39
31. K Vintners 2012 The Creator, Walla Walla Valley, $55
34. Tenet Wines 2013 The Pundit Syrah, Columbia Valley, $25

Short list and lots of contrasts. Have no idea what the K Vintners wine is. Charles Smith is an out of control egotistical misogynist and I'm not a customer, but by reputation I understand that some of his syrahs are goopy and some more classic. Have never even heard of Tenet winery but it appears to be a wine I'd like. Quilceda is what it is, and Gramercy's one of our best with Rhone tendencies. The Baer Ursa, however, is a wine I do know--modern, heavy, high alcohol, low acid goop. It's well-named: it plods. (And this is why I long ago let my subscription lapse, they use all kinds of flowery descriptors but leave out the words that would be truly useful--like 'heavy oak' or 'low acid', neither of which has to be said negatively. )

So heck, I can't draw any conclusions here EXCEPT: if there's no decisive palate reference at the Speck, and wines like Ursa end up in wine stores based on silly lists along with fine stuff like Gramercy and touted as a Best Of, then who's to blame the consumer, or Eric, who gets their hands on one instead of the other and draws a fair if slightly incorrect conclusion from same?

Not taking a stand one way or the other--meant to be advantageous to producers I'm sure--might ultimately be doing more harm than good.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

by Hoke » Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:58 pm

What I don't know is how much the paucity of WA wines outside the Northwest is due to our bizarre and outmoded system of alcohol distribution and state laws, how much is due to lack of (or unfavorable) publicity for the wines, and how much is due to the fact that many WA producers sell out already year after year, and thus have no need to market to the nether regions of the country. Perhaps all of the above?


Yes, all of the above, and you have them ranked correctly in terms of impact.

For quite a while, WA had a double advantage in that they had a great many good value/low priced wine brands (Hogue, Columbia) while at the same time they benefited from some dynamic hard-chargers on the high-quality/prestie wines---Quilceda Creek, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti as examples. They got a lot of attention from both directions, even to the point of supplying quite a few wines under the rubric of California brands.

WA is not quite the darling it used to be. And production costs plus ego and competition drove up the "opening price" points to the $30 level for many decent wineries and the wannabe ego operations.

There was also a 'corporatizing', moving away from the 'hey, let's plant a vineyard and name a winery after ourselves' to "how are we going to monetize this thing and get a return on investment for our shareholders?" Walla Walla is actually a microcosm of that dichotomy right now. The corporate/profit is out master operations have moved in. Foley is there. Some of the family operations are "going Hogue", essentially, selling out to corporate, some are remaining fiercely independent and devoted to quality, or causes. So you get a mixed bag.

Keep in mind that most of the consumption, and most of the sales, in this country are controlled by groceries and chain stores. They have only marginal---if any---interest in building or promoting brands or new regions. They will do that only when they are motivated (bribed) to do so. They are harvesters who rarely do more than bet on a sure thing. So we fall back to the specialist stores and merchants who look for the rare outlier, who find the hard to find, and who apostolicize to the educated buyer. The middle men---those wholesalers---largely exist now to rake money out of their level without actually doing very much. Which they always have done, of course, but not in the arrogant and carefree way they do now.

There are more wholesalers than you might think who don't give a damn what they put on their trucks as long as they have a full load on each truck and maximize their profit on each run. Period. The rest of the stuff is just expensive window dressing.
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Re: NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

by Bruce K » Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:00 pm

Jenise, apropos of your comment, I wound up finding Walla Walla wines I liked mostly by trial and error, plus occasional helpful tasting notes by you and others on this site. (For example, I think I first learned about Rotie from a post by Hoke.) I've spent a lot of time there over the years and gone into a lot of tasting rooms, and swirled, sniffed and spit a lot of overpriced, modern, oaky wines that are not to my taste. But then you find the gems -- and there are more of them lately, from my experience. Now, at least, I have a pretty good idea of which ones to go to and which to avoid.

But absent this experience, I'd probably remain pretty clueless. On the other hand, I'd probably have more money in my pocket and/or more European wines in my cellar, which I generally prefer anyway...
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