by geo t. » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:00 pm
Stark-Condé is a fine South African producer headed up by owner-winemaker José Condé, and deserving of greater recognition; they have two labels, with the Condé line being made up of single vineyard bottlings sourced from their best vineyard blocks, while the lower priced Stark line (named after a now-deceased family matriarch) are blended from more than one vineyard. The wines at both levels are made in the same manner, with hand-sorting, open-top fermentations, hand punchdowns and manual basket pressing.
2004 Stark Stellenbosch Syrah, $26, 14 % alc.: Dark garnet in color, fading to pink at the rim, with expressive smoke, toast, coffee and tar over dark plums and berries on the nose; the rich flavors echo loudly on a well structured, full bodied frame. With an hour’s worth of air, the somewhat burry tannins smooth out nicely, making for a fine glass of Syrah that pairs well now with a plate of lamb tagine. It’ll show even better with at least a few more years in the bottle, and quite probably well beyond that. A blend from two different vineyards from Condé-Stark’s Oude Nektar farm in Jonkershoek Valley, with full malolactic fermentation and 22 months in French oak, mostly 2nd year, with about 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
2004 Condé Stellenbosch Syrah, $35, 14 % alc.: This almost looks like purple-garnet ink in the glass; although a little stingy, it offers a well integrated kiss of sweet oak that complements the deep, dark plum and berry on the nose, all of which echoes and expands dramatically on the palate. Not exactly sweet, or even ripe, but certainly rich, full flavored and harmonious, with an additional shading of soft leather that becomes accentuated with air and sets the tone for the personality of the wine. Well structured (but not so much so that you can’t enjoy it now with some air and more of that tasty lamb tagine), with good length, this is well worth the tariff, and it will continue to develop over the next five years and beyond. From Condé’s highest elevation Syrah vineyard located at the Oude Nektar farm in Jonkershoek Valley, with full malolactic fermentation and 22 months in French oak, mostly 2nd year, with about 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc., Birmingham, AL.
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
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