March Wine Focus - Farther on up the Rhone!

Rahsaan, I notice CSW just got a few more in of that wine...

Yeah, I got another bottle last week. No room for more, but will see how long it all lasts.

[David M. Bueker]

Seriously - it is no help to those outside the cool kids group to not have the name of the wine in the post.

(but then again, what red wine doesn't pair well with lamb?)
Mark Lipton

And how, Mark!

Seriously - it is no help to those outside the cool kids group to not have the name of the wine in the post.

It's in the subject line. That's pretty visible, no?

[David M. Bueker]

Seriously - it is no help to those outside the cool kids group to not have the name of the wine in the post.

It's in the subject line. That's pretty visible, no?

Seriously - I didn't even see it. Sorry. Too much time in front of the computer.

David, I am somewhat of a fan of Domaine L`Ameillaud. Did you ever get around to the `07 CdR Cairanne?
I ask cos the `07 is here but am just about to open the `09 CdR!

[David M. Bueker]

The '07 never showed up in my market Bob. Sorry.

Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage, Rouge, 2006

I bought enough of these to make it my house red, and I really believed, up to this point, that I'd seen through all its guises. However, despite the familiarity, I find myself surprised at its evolution. While I adored its aromas of raw meat and flowers over the last year plus, they have started to take a back seat now and this is now showing, on both nose and palate, a redder fruit profile alongside iron, saline minerals and roasted herbs. The palate still has the fleshy, fruity fat of young Syrah, which I think it will never outgrow, but, at this point in its life, it shows more vivacity in its acidic backbone than previously and somewhat greater sophistication in its saline finish.

And, for comparison's sake, the flagship Crozes that I drank a short while.

Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage, Cuvee Gaby, Rouge, 2006

This, then, completes my survey of the various Colombier Crozes. This offers greater complexity, ripeness and presence than the lower-end reds, while retaining a similar fingerprint. The nose has a similar brett-y attack at first, but wields it more elegantly and combines with with enough tobacco leaf-infused black fruit to put it in the background and paint an aromatic picture that would not be out of place in more prestigious AOC's. While not much more tannic than the regular, it has more of a youthful zest, and finer balance, so although it is already as ready to drink as the regular, I think it will last and improve over three-five years, whereas I'm ready to drink up the regular now.

Gigondas Cuvée des Blaches 1998 – Domaine des Espiers – Alc.13.5%, made from Grenache 70% and Syrah 30%, was a very nice mature Gigondas with typically gutsy full/medium body, quite firm finish, quite dense dark fruit (a lot of cherry) laced with wet leather, liquorice, spice and a touch of gameyness. I think that the wine would have been diminished without the wet leather and gamey notes but the Brett-phobic be warned; 16/20++.

Embarking, as with Portugal and Languedoc-Roussillon, on a random search amongst budget supermarket offerings in the Wine Focus region, I picked out these two from Southern Rhône which have been purchased and shipped in bulk by the supermarket for bottling in Belgium. Once again I seem to have struck it lucky as both of these performed very well in relation to their price points and I will probably buy more, particularly of the latter.

Côtes du Rhône Les Truffiers 2009 – Alc.14% - (€4) - raised and bottled by Delhaize SA, Brussels, and made from Grenache and Syrah. The medium/light bodied wine was honestly rustic with some lively sweetish red and dark fruit, slightly confected boiled sweet aromas, lively acidity and decent grip; 14.5/20 QPR.

Beaumes de Venise 2009 – Château d’Applanats, famille Meffre – Alc.15% - (€5,50), raised and bottled by Delhaize SA, Brussels, and made from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, was an altogether superior proposition with quite full body, rich and dense sweet dark fruit, velvety mouth-feel, ripe structure with a touch of dry molasses towards the finish. After a very impressive first sip its opulence tended to become somewhat one dimensional but who can complain at that price? Very similar to and almost as good as a Rasteau 07 from Beaurenard costing twice as much; 15.5/20 QPR!
NB: Beaumes de Venise reds appear to have climbed out of Côtes du Rhône Villages and to have acquired an AOC of their own. Do not confuse with the sweet fortified Muscat de Beaumes de Venise which have had their own AOC for a long time.

2007 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Pergaud
Consistent with my last bottle. A little reticent at first, but opens beautifully with some air. Pure Syrah fruit, spice and florality with a faint meatiness emerging with more air. Flavour with barely any sense of weight. Wonderful wine, though I'll keep my hands off other bottles for some time.

Côtes du Rhône Les Truffiers 2009 – Alc.14% - (€4) - raised and bottled by Delhaize SA, Brussels, and made from Grenache and Syrah. The medium/light bodied wine was honestly rustic with some lively sweetish red and dark fruit, slightly confected boiled sweet aromas, lively acidity and decent grip; 14.5/20 QPR.

Good to see I am not the only one checking out the `09 vintage Tim. Bit behind with my notes as busy planning our annual Snow Goose festival, plus the Iditarod watching.

WTN: `09 Cotes du Rhone Domaine L`Ameillaud.

Quite a few notes on this domaine here on this forum. Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan. $20 Cdn, 14.5% alc, good natural cork. This is bottle #1 of 3 but will be also looking for their Cairanne!

Color is a bright red-ruby, medium intense center. Blackcurrant on the nose with some brambleberry.
Initial entry thought was dry-ish, nice tannic structure but unbalanced finish. Much better on day two...spice, black fruits but no chocolate. Ripe fruit here, indicative of the vintage? "Expecting some savoury character here" from across the table. Medium-bodied, try again in a year or so.

2007 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieilles Vignes Domaine de Pergaud
Consistent with my last bottle. A little reticent at first, but opens beautifully with some air. Pure Syrah fruit, spice and florality with a faint meatiness emerging with more air. Flavour with barely any sense of weight. Wonderful wine, though I'll keep my hands off other bottles for some time.

Éric, if you read this, can you tell me where I can get your wines in Belgium

WTN: `09 Cotes du Rhone Domaine L`Ameillaud.

Quite a few notes on this domaine here on this forum. Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan. $20 Cdn, 14.5% alc, good natural cork. This is bottle #1 of 3 but will be also looking for their Cairanne!

Color is a bright red-ruby, medium intense center. Blackcurrant on the nose with some brambleberry.
Initial entry thought was dry-ish, nice tannic structure but unbalanced finish. Much better on day two...spice, black fruits but no chocolate. Ripe fruit here, indicative of the vintage? "Expecting some savoury character here" from across the table. Medium-bodied, try again in a year or so.

I think that the S.Rhône 09s are looking good in a quite opulent style. I liked quite a few 08s which were lighter and more acidic than either 07 or 09 but, when successful, had fine aromatics and a certain elegance.

Éric, if you read this, can you tell me where I can get your wines in Belgium

Hi Tim,

So..., Belgium still exists
Sorry, but absolutely nowhere. I'd love people like Mostade to bring some, but they don't seem to be very interested. I still have the very nasty Négociant label sticked on my back!

Éric, if you read this, can you tell me where I can get your wines in Belgium

Hi Tim,

So..., Belgium still exists
Sorry, but absolutely nowhere. I'd love people like Mostade to bring some, but they don't seem to be very interested. I still have the very nasty Négociant label sticked on my back!

Éric, a lot of Belgians seem to enjoy not having a government ; but some decisions will have to be taken soon .

Yes, I suppose that "négociant" is a bit of turn-off for people seeking out terroir driven wines but Verget and Rijckaert manage OK here (their being Belgians probably helps) and, more relevantly, I think that you philosophy should appeal. My favourite cavistes for French wines with real personality are Roger Michel at La Cave des Oblats in Liège and Pierre Ghysens, recently moved to Le Moulin à Vins in Verviers; have you tried them?

A couple of notes from a weekend tasting:

2007 E. Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône
50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvèdre. Full-bodied, round, somewhat dense, and low in acidity; shows notes of blackcurrants, plums, dark berries, and chocolate. A little riper than I would like, but not a bad wine for those who like a more full-throttle style. Probably at its best over the next few years, although I did try a 1988 a couple of years back, and it was still an interesting wine.

2007 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Tradition
75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault. Full-bodied, strong, very ripe, and curranty, with dark berry and spice notes. Low in acidity, with some heat and off notes. Disappointing.

WTN: Mas Des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2009

AC Costières de Nîmes
Cyril Mares

A 55-45 per cent blend of Syrah and Grenache.

Deep cherry red in the glass.

Spicy, currants, sweet berry fruit, lightly smoky, red licorice, cinnamon on the complex nose.

Medium weight, spicy, tangy, rather high acidity, cherry, raspberry, red licorice, peppery, bright, smoked meat, perhaps a little sharp, incredibly fresh and vibrant.

Drying, with raspberry fruit on the finish.

Purchased at $14.95 (Canadian).

I'm following this thread with much interest as my wife and I are going on a wine tasting expedition to the Southern Rhone with our neighborhood wine merchant in June. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good book on the region, preferably a recent one?

WTN: Mas Des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2009

AC Costières de Nîmes
Cyril Mares

A 55-45 per cent blend of Syrah and Grenache.

Deep cherry red in the glass.

Spicy, currants, sweet berry fruit, lightly smoky, red licorice, cinnamon on the complex nose.

Medium weight, spicy, tangy, rather high acidity, cherry, raspberry, red licorice, peppery, bright, smoked meat, perhaps a little sharp, incredibly fresh and vibrant.

Drying, with raspberry fruit on the finish.

Purchased at $14.95 (Canadian).

Costières de Nîmes is a great source of QPR wines (most costing here much less than €10) in Southern Rhône grape varieties and style for drinking young. This one from Mas des Bressades (<€7) is a typical product from a reliable estate. Other estates where I have enjoyed the wines are Château de Nages and Château Grande Cassagne. I have never had one which has the opulence and complexity of a good CDRV, CndP, Vacqueyras, Gigondas or a CDR like Coudoulet and Fonsalette, but they can do a great job at their price point. I tried ageing some Grande Cassagne 1998 but it didn't add anything.

I have read about Château Mourgues du Grès in my French reference books and it sounds as if its wines are a cut above the others in the appellation in personality and terroir expression.

Thanks for the info. Chateau de Nages shows up here quite often and I have tried, and enjoyed, it a few times over the years.

[Jenise]

I'm following this thread with much interest as my wife and I are going on a wine tasting expedition to the Southern Rhone with our neighborhood wine merchant in June. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good book on the region, preferably a recent one?

We took several books with us last fall, Clint, and each was useful for something. I'll ask Bob for his impressions (his nose was in the books more than mine) when he gets home and pass on reccomendations then. Where are you going to be staying?

Jenise, we will be staying in Chateau Goult in the village of Goult in the Luberon.

I am looking forward to your book recommendations.

[Robin Garr]

Domaine la Guintrandy 2007 Côtes du Rhône Villages Visan Vieilles Vignes ($22.99)

Very dark purple with a garnet edge. Ripe raspberries and juicy cherries on the nose; black fruit and fresh acidity in the flavor, with a blast of fragrant black pepper that fills the back of the palate. Tart cherries and pepper and soft tannins persist in a very long finish. Although it sees time in oak, the wood is not evident. Nor is the stunning 15.5% alcohol claimed on the label, which doesn't show in the mouth at all ... caution is warranted, as it's good enough to make you want a second glass or even a third. A blend of 90 percent old vines Grenache, 5 percent old vines Carignan and 5 percent old vines Syrah. U.S. importer: Vanguard Wines LLC, Columbus. (March 3, 2011)

FOOD MATCH: Good with just about any red meat or grilled or roast poultry dish. It was fine with medium-rare Kentucky-grown bison burgers.

VALUE: The $20-plus mark would be a bit spendy on the price-for-value scale for Côtes du Rhône for me, but in fairness, the bottlings from named villages often surpass this and, for sought-after villages, even the $30 point. On quality alone, without considering comparatives, this price is competitive.

WHEN TO DRINK: Fine now, but I think its robust balance of fruit, acidity and tannins with high alcohol will see it live and evolve over at least five years of cellar time.

WEB LINKS:
Click here to visit the Visan Vieilles Vignes page on the Domaine la Guintrandy site.
http://www.vins-cuilleras.com/wines-vieilles-vignes.htm

This link goes to the importer's website.
http://www.vanguardwines.com

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Olivier Cuilleras 2007 Côtes du Rhône Villages Visan on Wine-Searcher.com.
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Cuill ... g_site=WLP