by Manuel Camblor » Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:24 pm
David,
I must say I can't stomach Montrose these days. As far as I'm concerned, the last great vintage at that address happened at some point in the '70s. And these days it seems to be point-seeking, jammy crap.
My disappointments with Bordeaux have been many in recent years. Some trusted old names have seen fit to hire Michel Rolland. Others have gone with different consultants. But they have messed with what I considered true, terroir-authentic, cellarworthy claret. I mean, did you ever think you'd read the words "blockbuster" and "Pape Clément" in the same phrase? Léoville Poyferré, to me the finest terroir in Saint-Julien, is as good as lost under a Rollandian regime. And I hear DDC is being messed with to turn it into something "more immediately accessible".
Of ocurse, there are a few remaining properties making decent, true wines in Bordeaux. But 95% of the joint could just as well be Napa. It's dead to me.
Salon? Well, we had an infamous bottle of '85 last year which was completely flat, brothy and weird when poured, but which over a few hours not only mustered up some citrusy freshness and mineral oomph, it also got itself some effervescence. But I've had plenty of "off" bottles" And it's too expensive to be this risky.
And what, you hadn't noticed my curmudgeonly qualities? I'm one of the few old-school castigators remaining here. Back in the days of The Basement we lost the best ones. And some of them went over and made Therapy. But I remain...
By the way, I'm no fan of Château Faugères and its wines these days. I do remember at some point on the old WLDG writing up a positive note of a '95 Faugères when it had just been released, but since then it's all been downhill. Cap de Faugères has always been rather dull and on the woody side for me. Hell, I even had the winemaker sitting next to me at a dinner in Barcelona a few years ago. I remember that when his grossly overpriced Péby Faugères was poured blind, I said that was coarse, truckerish wine tarted up with wood and the gods know what else to make it titsome and point-deserving. He was rather upset. Josie kept saying ot me that I should stop composing my tasting notes in
viva voce if I wanted to have friends at all in the iwne trade...
Best,
LL