Paul B. on the '04 Vergennes from Arbor Hill:
I think it's fair to say that, served blind, few would guess this to be a labrusca wine. It had subdued fruit with a light spicy overlay that didn't hint at any particular white labrusca variety that I've tried up to now. Delaware and Steuben both have distinct labrusca character. Diamond has this character too, but then it seems to whisper a kind of "guess who I am" from the glass when swirled.... The mid-palate was crisp and cleansing with healthy acidity, and the finish was minerally and nearly dry (I think I would have rated this a '1' on the sugar scale, just by taste).
That's a great description of a truly unique wine. I also detected a little sweetness, so I tested it by hydrometer. Lo and behold, it comes in a hair less than 1.000 SG. So it's actually quite dry, although the taste suggests otherwise.
Not having had Vergennes before I can't say how characteristic this one is, but the winemaker - John Brehm - certainly deserves a lot of credit. Many believe that Arbor Hill has set the standard for Traminette. They just may be on their way again with Vergennes.