Wine Focus: Open that Bottle MONTH ... EXTENDED!

A couple of years ago, but loved it
2014 Domaine Maume-Marchand-Tawse Mazoyères-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru (4/2/2017)

Looking at that domaine name more closely, I realise that is Pascal Marchand in charge. No wonder the wines are still good.

He was one of Pierre Vandenplas' vignerons and was in charge of Comte Armand in those days. He often presented his wines at Pierre's tastings, I bought his Pommard Clos des Épeneaux and still have excellent bottles left from 93 and 96. Later on he was in charge at Vougeraie and was instrumental in establishing its quality reputation. In that role he continued to present his wines in Belgium but at a different merchant. The wines were excellent but I never bought any because, by then, I was no longer laying down GCs and 1erCs.

Pascal Marchand is from Quebec and Moray Tawse is an Ontario winery owner. I believe that Maume has now been dropped from the domaine's name.

I opened a 2008 Croisille Divin Cahors last week which had been nicely cellared in my basement. Marc Vigeron of Nobilis wines always brings in some excellent wines from that area of France and being the keen Cahors fan that I am, I had no problem putting a bottle away ($45 Cdn).

Good natural cork, 15% alc, decanted one hr, little sediment. 40 yr old vines on limestone soil. 100% Malbec.
Purple nose, no bricking. Enticing nose as it opened up with blackberry, some spice, blueberry...."licorice" from across the table.
Initial entry thought was nicely matured, very good acidity and fruit balance. The 15% alcohol not an issue with dark fruits and tapenade. Full-bodied, boysenberry maybe, blackberry, plum. More tobacco and earth on day 2..overall top drawer here!
Food was a pork casserole with various herbs and spices.

I opened a 2008 Croisille Divin Cahors last week which had been nicely cellared in my basement. Marc Vigeron of Nobilis wines always brings in some excellent wines from that area of France and being the keen Cahors fan that I am, I had no problem putting a bottle away ($45 Cdn).

Good natural cork, 15% alc, decanted one hr, little sediment. 40 yr old vines on limestone soil. 100% Malbec.
Purple nose, no bricking. Enticing nose as it opened up with blackberry, some spice, blueberry...."licorice" from across the table.
Initial entry thought was nicely matured, very good acidity and fruit balance. The 15% alcohol not an issue with dark fruits and tapenade. Full-bodied, boysenberry maybe, blackberry, plum. More tobacco and earth on day 2..overall top drawer here!
Food was a pork casserole with various herbs and spices.

Mouthwatering TN, Bob, but 15% is a bit of a bludgeon. Château des Croisille is a new name for me and I'll keep my eyes open for it.

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2012 - A reminder why we need to revisit Piemonte when a vaccine is available and this coronacrap is under control. Deep color, no bricking, beautifully balanced and ready now imvho. Highly appreciated also by the younger generation at family dinner.

2014 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, France. Labeled as 13% abv. After loving the 2014 Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, I was expecting to be wowed by the Valmur. Frankly, I found it disappointing. A pungent aroma takes over the nasal passages with lots of seashell and flint and an overpowering lanolin, nail polish scent. I have liked a touch of lanolin in white Burgundy wines in the past but this was too dominant. This was acidic in a lemony way and unwinds in a lengthy finish. I was hoping that nail polish scent would diminish on the second or third day--it did diminish a bit by the fourth day. The fruit is a bit elusive to pin down--hints of lemon, quince or pear and maybe gooseberry. CellarTracker notes and John Gilman liked it much more than I did, so maybe I had an off bottle or I am an outlier on this wine.

Can you say volatile acidity? That nail polish aroma is ethyl acetate, or possibly acetone.

-Paul W.

Yes, acetone is the other descriptor I use for this feature.

[David M. Bueker]

Never run into that I Chablis before!

Lockdown restrictions are easing in our part of Australia, so we did this:

The wine list for the day - each and every one an "Open that bottle" qualifier:

08 Krug (not in picture)
13 Blain Gagnard Batard Montrachet
13 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet
09 Bouchard le Chambertin
09 Bouchard Bonnes Mares
14 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate
14 Dujac Echezeaux
13 DRC La Tache
09 Ligier Belair Echezeaux
14 Soldera Casse Basse
13 Saliciutti Brunello
15 Giuseppe Rinaldi Tre Tine
16 Phillipe Pacalet Ruchottes Chambertin
17 ?? Langhe Nebbiolo
15 Vietti Rocche
99 Chateau D'Yquem
07 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Eiswein
85 Dows VP

[Jenise]

Wow, you win! What an amazing event. Of course, my eyes went straight to the La Tache!

What a lineup! Which Bouchard was that (Aine & Fils or Pere & Fils)? Also, was the Vietti Rocche the Barolo?

-Paul W.

What a lineup! Which Bouchard was that (Aine & Fils or Pere & Fils)? Also, was the Vietti Rocche the Barolo?

-Paul W.

Pere et Fils

And the Vietti Rocche is indeed one of their single vineyard Barolos. Served to us blind described as a "crowd pleasing nebbiolo"...

Wow, you win! What an amazing event. Of course, my eyes went straight to the La Tache!

Only the second time I have seen a La Tache. So distinctive with its middle eastern spices. And like almost every wine on the table, way too young.

I fondly remember the 1982 and 1985 Vietti Barolo Rocce. Given how long it took those wines to come around, I'd have thought opening the 2015 at this point would be infanticide. So was it a "crowd pleasing nebbiolo"?

-Paul W.

Morello Demetria Estate Syrah, Santa Barbara County, 2012. From my tasting notes, days 1 & 2.

Upon removing foil, top of cork clearly moldy. Wiped the mold, removed cork easily (well-humidified), and wiped bottle neck. No further mold; wine smelled fine. So proceeded with tasting.

Excellent clarity, rim variation consistent with age. Aromas are dark fruit forward: blackberry, blueberry, black currant. Less striking are prune and light toast. On the palate, dark fruits persist and a hint of cocoa and jam join in. Smooth texture. Impression: some varietal characteristics yet a resemblance to Zinfandel. Very good wine, but not a typical Syrah. At $28 with tax & shipping, QPR is average at best. Drink now or next year.

More to enjoy over the next few days. Fortunately our evenings cool down such that bigger reds are still enjoyable. That may change soon....then those reds wait until later.

This is another end of a series. I had a number of bottles of vintages from the 90s and early 00s from Alain Graillot, both the basic bottling and Guiraude. They aged beautifully into 15-20 year old range and had a quasi-Burgundian elegance quite untypical of the appellation. I can, of course, buy current vintages from the estate but they would take many years to acquire equivalent maturity.

2001 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (11/07/2020)
This is a real beauty. I no longer felt that the palate was excessively upfront as I did in 2015 and the complex flavours of cherry, meat, olive, light spices were there in harmonious abundance. This punches well above the weight of its relatively lowly appellation and is probably at its peak.
Posted from CellarTracker

[David M. Bueker]

The Guiraude is a lovely wine. Sadly my local shops no longer carry it.

I fondly remember the 1982 and 1985 Vietti Barolo Rocce. Given how long it took those wines to come around, I'd have thought opening the 2015 at this point would be infanticide. So was it a "crowd pleasing nebbiolo"?

-Paul W.

Well, the crowd was fairly pleased...

It was approachable, and I was more than a little surprised when the wine was unmasked. On reflection though we have drunk a handful of the Vietti single vineyards in their youth before, back to about the 05 vintage and they are surprisingly drinkable in their tender youth,

For us Italian wine fans, what was the overall take on each of those? Brunello, etc. I don't think I've even tasted any of the vintners in your lineup.

Seems like a great party!

[Jenise]

Wow, you win! What an amazing event. Of course, my eyes went straight to the La Tache!

Only the second time I have seen a La Tache. So distinctive with its middle eastern spices. And like almost every wine on the table, way too young.

I actually saw/participated in a magnum once, 75 or 78, whichever vintage was the big deal vintage of the late 70's. Can't recall offhand which.

Wow, you win! What an amazing event. Of course, my eyes went straight to the La Tache!

Only the second time I have seen a La Tache. So distinctive with its middle eastern spices. And like almost every wine on the table, way too young.

I actually saw/participated in a magnum once, 75 or 78, whichever vintage was the big deal vintage of the late 70's. Can't recall offhand which.

I was served a bottle of La Tâche 1962 by a friend in the 80s. Alongside Latour 1945, also in the 80s, it was unforgettable perfection and top wine of my lifetime.

I also got a taste of La Tâche 1990 presented by Aubert de Villaine at a millenium tasting in Bordeaux. It was too young and not yet singing like the 1962 at 20+ years of age.

This was not only my last Rancia 99 but the last of a series of 90s Rancias starting from the 95 vintage, missing out 96 when I believe Fèlsina only made its basic CC cuvée. Rancia is one of my favourite Chianti Classicos. Luckily I still have a few bottles from vintages in the 00s.

1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (18/07/2020)
This was the best but the last of my three bottles of Rancia 99. It showed dignity and class combined with savoury plum tinged fruit, minerals, touches of balsam, tar and leather as well as tangy acidity and backbone and added all the graciousness of the first bottle plus further complexity. Excellent.
Posted from CellarTracker

I opened a 2008 Barbaresco "Serra" from Paitin to go with Jenise's Braised Tuscan Chicken with Porcini. See review elsewhere.

-Paul W.