Wine Focus September 2022: Grenache!

[David M. Bueker]

Well I started a day early, but it's now Grenache month here in Wine Focus. Grenache Day is September 16, so we'll take the month to celebrate a grape that is a backbone in both France and Spain. The lazy last few days of official Northern Hemisphere summer may be a touch warm for this grape that can produce rather high alcohol, but give it a quick chill, and the fruit shines.

So whether you choose to call it Grenache or Garnacha, drink it straight or in a blend, please grab a bottle and join the discussion.

Wine Focus editor's note - I pushed Port to October, despite Port Day being in September. I don't know about all of you, but by me it's still too warm to even contemplate a Port.

[David M. Bueker]

2019 Bucklin Grenache Ancient Grenache Old Hill Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (8/31/2022)
Was reading about Grenache yesterday, so had to open one!

Pop and pour and initially just above cellar temp, this was mostly about joyous berry fruit, with only a little bit of spice, herb and earth in the background. A little bit warner and the savory elements took on more prominence, and the Old Hill-ness of the wine started to shine. That baked earth and brushy briary stuff came out more in the aromatics, and it was like standing there by the vineyard (which I have sadly not done since 1998).

Yes, I have been contemplating Grenache quite a while for this month. Nice selection in the cellar as downtown store is strong on Garnacha! I think for many Borsao Crianza is always a good buy so here is a simple TN I helped write for the store.
2020 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Clasico (Campo de Borja, Spain)
Wine - Red $16.99 (750mL)

The vineyards are situated on the northern slopes of the Moncayo mountain range, in the Campo de Borja region of northeast Spain, where the cooling Cierzo wind creates an unique microclimate, ideal for growing the Garnacha grapes. Red ruby dress with dark purple reflection, an intense bouquet of ripe berry fruit and warm spices, offering a smooth wine with elegant tannins. Ideal with meat dishes, pasta and cheeses.

I imagine Tim over there in Normandy will find us some excellent varieties, maybe even from the Rhone Valley. Maybe even the excellent Mont Tauch co-operative in the south of France.

[Jenise]

I really really like grenache and many wineries in Washington make it (and blend it), but the preference for black-fruited wines in the local market where Cabernet is king makes single-variety grenache hard to come by. In fact, a few years back when the subject came up here on WLDG, I canvassed local retailers and didn't find a single offering but for the $10 Garnacha level. The latter sells well to kind of buyer who's only picky about price; at $20/ea it wouldn't move. And the buyer who will pay $30 or more is looking for cabernet, merlot or syrah.

I'll check my inventory, but I doubt I have a single bottle of single-variety grenache. But not because I don't love it, only because it doesn't show up where I shop.

[Jenise]

So just checked. I own three bottles of pure grenache, one Cayuse and two from Chapoutier and Chaupin. Hmmm.

[David M. Bueker]

Blends are fine!

[Jenise]

Oh I know. I was just thinking out loud about how under-appreciated this grape is. Essentially, those of us who really love red fruit and just might prefer it aren't the norm here. Just went to the website of this town's best retailer who has an online store I can look at: three bottles of WA grenache, and one CA. Prices were $51, $64, $89 and $119 (a Cayuse). And then there's the cheap spanish stuff.

[David M. Bueker]

oof

FWIW, the Bucklin (from vines established in 1885) is $44.

Jenise said quote..And then there's the cheap spanish stuff.

I take offence to that, there is excellent Grenache from Spain for under $25 Canadian. Not everyone can afford some of the higher priced wines you mention.

[David M. Bueker]

I think she was referring to the $10 bottles like she mentioned elsewhere.

[Jenise]

Jenise said quote..And then there's the cheap spanish stuff.

I take offence to that, there is excellent Grenache from Spain for under $25 Canadian. Not everyone can afford some of the higher priced wines you mention.

Your offense is very misplaced. I'm describing what's available where I live, and the context is that I'm mystified by the absence of good-quality mid-range grenaches that I know exist.

I imagine Tim over there in Normandy will find us some excellent varieties, maybe even from the Rhone Valley. Maybe even the excellent Mont Tauch co-operative in the south of France.

Yes, nearly all AOP red wines from the southern Rhône valley, Languedoc and Roussillon have Grenache in the blend, often the majority grape. Some good ones can be had for as little as €6. On the other hand, 100% Grenache is quite rare in table wines. However, most port style VDNs ( = Vin Doux Naturel, a funny way to describe fortified wine!) from Roussillon are made 100% from Grenache and many are excellent, especially from the appellations Maury and Banyuls.

I agree that Garnacha from Spain can be very good but it was responsible for one of the worst wines I have had since using CT. For the sake of amusement I post that TN below. It was the same Bodegas Borsao as Bob's but a different cuvée designed, I think, to appeal to Parker and his acolytes.

2012 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Campo de Borja Tres Picos - Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja (31/07/2014)
This wine is a caricature of all that I dislike in "modern" interventionist wine-making. Some concentrated (and potentially attractive?) brambly fruit is swamped by a spine of dry caramel (undigested wood) and the finish is more than spicy - it is burning and abrasive. We were unable to drink more than a glass each. I strongly doubt whether more age would render this wine more drinkable for me but I'm keeping back the undrunk two-thirds of the bottle to see what a day open brings.
Posted from CellarTracker

As it happens last night's wine was a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from Saint-Chinian. It is good QPR at <€8. As a generalisation, I think that the wines from Languedoc tend to be more mineral and less lush than similar blends from the Rhône and Roussillon, especially the former.

2019 Cave de Roquebrun Saint-Chinian Terrasses de Maynard - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian (03/09/2022)
This is much like the 2018, being quite full with rich but lively fruit, some earthy minerality and spice, smooth texture and good balancing acidity. I enjoyed it more than the previous bottle. A question of mood or pairing? Good and worth repurchase.

[David M. Bueker]

The late (only great once) Tres Picos!

That wine, along with the even more infamous Sierra Carche, set Spain back with US wine fans. Put out an amazing debut wine, then re-do the sourcing to make really cheap crap under a label that had grabbed fans.

Terrible legacy for both.

[Jenise]

20 years ago, my first wine purchase in Washington--I'd just moved here--was a Tres Picos recommended by a local wine steward. I hadn't yet learned to run away at "It's very popular". Tasted like a Sees caramel. Can't believe how ubiquitous it still is--every supermarket in the land carries it.

[Jenise]

Doing some cellar management yesterday I realized I had two bottles, not yet in inventory, of this wine. I didn't seek the wine out so much as back when I bought two to top up an order to qualify for free shipping, making these fellers essentially free. So I opened one:

2019 Château Mont Thabor Côtes du Rhône Red Rhone Blend
80% Grenache. Dark blue/black/brown color. Peppery nose with flavors of black mission fig, black raspberries, mushrooms, and unlit cigar on the palate. Big, serious and dry--dare I say [she lowers her voice to a whisper], Rayas-like. Would guess very old vines. Quite astonishing for a mere $12 CdR.

[Jenise]

So for academic purposes thought I should try another cheap garnacha (Bob P, don't have a heart attack). I chose a 2019 Garnacha de Fuego for two reasons: $9, and a Jorge Ordonez import. In the past I've thought well of Jorge Ordonez selections.

I did not think well of this one. It was just sweet plummy fruit with a cloying, lactic finish. All the spice and pepper I love about Rhone grenaches and even some domestic versions aren't here.

Yes! September is the perfect month for Grenache. Still warm, but nights are starting to get cooler. I have only 100% Grenache in my cellar as I tend to drink them rather quickly. But I will probably contribute several Gigondas tasting notes to the forum. I’m excited to see what everyone drinks! Cheers

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for stepping up. Other than the Bucklin I opened all my Grenache is in blends. Will be cracking a few of those, especially if it actually cools down.

There are some very nice pinks where Grenache is majority contributor. This one is Grenache 75% – Cabernet-Sauvignon 15% – Syrah 10% and comes from about 30 km north of Aix-en-Provence. It costs c.€8.

2020 Les Complices des Calanques Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Grain de Soleil - France, Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (07/09/2022)
This pink has a lot of charm with strawberry infused fruit, spice, fresh acidity and some firmness in the finish. Good.
Posted from CellarTracker

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting. Cabernet Sauvignon usually dominates everything it touches, but that reads like a classic Grenache Rosé.

2017 Proyecto Garnachas de Espana Salvaje del Moncayo, Aragon Sp.

Purchased a while back but somehow got lost in the cellar! Good nat cork, $23 Cda, 14% alc, L-17-3.
Medium plum color still quite dense. Cherry and strawberry on the nose, earthy. Still vibrant on initial entry, medium bodied, low tannins. Very fruity with pepper and spice on the finish..plum and blackberries. Held up well over 2 days, good honest wine here. I see a new vintage in the store.

We drink a lot of red from S. Rhône, Languedoc and Roussillon and this usually means a large dollop of Grenache in the blend. Here the Laudun is a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah and the Roussillon Villages of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. I have no information on the proportions. It is hard to know how far the differences are due to the grape blend, to the place or to the producer’s style.

2019 Domaine Pélaquié Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun (09/09/2022)
This is just what I want from a modestly priced (<€7) Villages Rhône. Medium++ bodied and round with generous fruit, a sprinkling of pepper, decent acidity and grip. Good and well worth repurchase.

2020 Mas Amiel Côtes du Roussillon Villages Promesse - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (09/09/2022)
This followed a Rhône Laudun and more savoury fruit together with more earthiness and structure were apparent. They are both good wines but this is somewhat dearer (€10 vs €7) with probably more ageing potential
Posted from CellarTracker