Wine Focus March 2022 - Riesling is coming!

[David M. Bueker]

Riesling Day is March 13, 2022.

The first written reference to Riesling dates back to March 13, 1435, so there's nearly 600 years of history to ponder.

Germany is still the largest producer of Riesling, but there's all sorts of other countries/regions to celebrate. Grab a Riesling from New Zealand, Austria or Canada. Make an effort to explore the rapidly improving Rieslings out of the Finger Lakes region of Western New York. Have a dry Riesling. Better yet, convince a skeptical friend that Riesling isn't always sweet wine! Enjoy an Auslese with a cheese course. There's 31 days to celebrate Riesling in March, and more than 31 ways to enjoy Riesling.

[David M. Bueker]

Getting an early start with a 2019 Günther Steinmetz Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Riesling 'Monopollage' that is delicious and thought provoking. I grabbed four, but wish I had grabbed a case. This is "open that bottle" worthy.

[David M. Bueker]

• 2019 Weingut Günther Steinmetz Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Riesling Monopollage - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/25/2022)
  I drank through this bottle way too fast. I also didn't buy enough. Initially there was an obtrusive Sweet-Tart element, but that blew off in 30 minutes. After that the wine went through a series of changes where it showed more or less acidity, more or less fruit, riper or more tart fruit, and then, after about two hours it settled into a groove. Unripe mango, lime zest, bruised herbs and a chalky and slatey minerality that scoured my palate like a road grater fitted with third grade erasers. Totally compelling, and stuffed to the gills such that years will be required to plumb the depths. Should have bought a case.

2019 Weingut Günther Steinmetz Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Riesling Monopollage - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/25/2022)
I drank through this bottle way too fast....

Yes, that can easily happen with riesling! Even when dry and the alcohol is slightly elevated, as seems to be the case with this wine.

Last night was the 2020 Hermann Ludes Thörnicher Ritsch Kabinett "Monster". The name Monster had always thrown me off because it sounded so international-silly. But then I found out it is a prime parcel of the vineyard.

The wine started out with some Monster-esque density and fullness, especially compared to the airy-light TR Spätlese I've been drinking. But it just needs some time to get sorted and loosen up. Eventually it stretches out, shows the kabinett angles, with clear lemon/lime lace and elegance. Another evaporation wine!

[David M. Bueker]

• 2014 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/28/2022)
  Popped and poured at cellar temp (54 degrees F), this announced itself in a classic style, with measured sweetness, brisk acidity, and a cool, zippy finish. The fruit stays in the green and yellow zones, and there’s a little bit of sugar coating, like dusting a slice of lime with powdered sugar. The aftertaste heads towards yellow grapefruit, without ever veering into bitter territory. This feels and tastes like Kabinett, even if it’s objectively big for what that pradikat meant in the early 1990s.

[David M. Bueker]

• 2017 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (3/2/2022)
  Popped and poured? Unscrewed and poured perhaps. This was my first ever wine from Red Newt, and it left a very positive impression. The aromas were apparent from the first pour, focused on stone fruit and ripe citrus. The palate showed excellent depth, as well as bright acidity, carrying the fruit flavors on a dry wave that finished with a salty tang. Blind I probably would have guessed a dry Riesling from the Nahe. Impressive, and with lots of time in hand.

That is a great note, wish we had more NY rieslings out here. OK>>>>

2015 Hexamer Quarzit Riesling Nahe.

2/3 bottle, SC, 11%alc, cellared 3 yrs, $26 Cda.
Color is starting to verge to light gold. Nose impressive..melon, peach, hint of gasolein, citrus mineral again noted after a warm up.
Initial entry thought is some sweetness and good acidity Nectarin on long lingering finish. Still has some zipp, easy to drink thought others.

[David M. Bueker]

I'll never complain about a Hexamer wine!

• 2017 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (3/2/2022)...Blind I probably would have guessed a dry Riesling from the Nahe. Impressive, and with lots of time in hand.

I haven't really tasted many FL rieslings (or wines of any sort for that matter), over the past 15+ years. I can imagine they have gotten a lot better as people learn even more about the terroir, warm summers, vines age, etc etc.

[David M. Bueker]

• 2017 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (3/2/2022)...Blind I probably would have guessed a dry Riesling from the Nahe. Impressive, and with lots of time in hand.

I haven't really tasted many FL Rieslings (or wines of any sort for that matter), over the past 15+ years. I can imagine they have gotten a lot better as people learn even more about the terroir, warm summers, vines age, etc etc.

When I last visited the FL about a decade or so ago it was very clear that vine age made a huge difference. Tasting younger versus older (older being 25-30) at HJ Weimer was obvious in terms of quality increase with vine age from the same basic vineyard site.

Last night was the 2020 Hermann Ludes Thörnicher Ritsch Kabinett "Monster". The name Monster had always thrown me off because it sounded so international-silly. But then I found out it is a prime parcel of the vineyard.

The wine started out with some Monster-esque density and fullness, especially compared to the airy-light TR Spätlese I've been drinking. But it just needs some time to get sorted and loosen up. Eventually it stretches out, shows the kabinett angles, with clear lemon/lime lace and elegance. Another evaporation wine!

Tonight was 2020 Hermann Ludes Thörnicher Ritsch Kabinett Feinherb "gackes unten", and it was so so good. Herbal and verdant with a bitter biting edge, but with plenty of lemon lime citrus juiciness, lace, and minerals. So easy to drink and so delicious.

As I drink more of these Ludes wines, I'm becoming more and more of a fan. Similar crackling clarity as Falkenstein (and were initially recommended to me by the retailer who had no more Falkenstein to sell), but with more Mosel slate slush.

[David M. Bueker]

gackes unten?

Got a slew of 2019 Markus Molitor wines today. Going to give a few a spin soon.

[Robin Garr]

Fritz Zimmer 2019 Mosel Riesling Auslese ($16.99)

Designated Prädikatswein, the top quality level for German wine, Zimmer Mosel Riesling Auslese shows a clear, pretty brass-color greenish-gold in the glass. Alluring, typically Riesling aromas lift up from the glass: Pears, white flowers, and a mix of citrus, with that oddly attractive Riesling mineral note that's mysteriously akin to petrol. Its first impression on the palate is firm, mouth-watering acidity that gradually gives way to distinct sweetness that speaks of fruit. Pears, lemon-lime, and tangerine hang on in a very long finish, with wisps of stony minerality lingering alongside. Delicious Riesling with just 9% acidity – typical for Auslese – making it hard to resist another glass. U.S. importer: Winesellers Ltd., Niles, Ill. (Feb. 28 , 2022)

FOOD MATCH: Fruit-based desserts are a natural with this sweeter-style Riesling, but its acidic balance makes it a good companion with cheese and many vegetarian and vegan dishes as well. It was excellent with a dish of penne with roasted fennel, garlic and onions with a light Parmigiano Reggiano sauce.

WHEN TO DRINK: Riesling ages well, and sweeter Riesling ages very well. Even though this is not an estate-bottled wine, its composition and balance and its sturdy metal screw cap suggest that it's safe to cellar it for five years, and under excellent conditions even longer.

VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com's $13 average U.S. retail and even my $17 local price seems fair for a tart-sweet and balanced Mosel Riesling like this.

WEB LINK:
Importer Winesellers Ltd. offers this good info sheet on its web page.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Fritz Zimmer Mosel Riesling Auslese on Wine-Searcher.com.

Follow this Wine-Searcher link to read more about the Mosel valley and find listings for dozens of other wines of the region.

Read about Riesling and browse scores of wines made from this white grape at this Wine-Searcher link.

gackes unten?

Who knows where these names come from! A parcel within TR, supposedly ungrafted vines.

[David M. Bueker]

gackes unten?

Who knows where these names come from! A parcel within TR, supposedly ungrafted vines.

Thanks. Figured parcel name (Urgluck anyone?) but just wanted to be sure.

I didn't expect to take part in this months tasting because I do not have any Riesling and would say I don't like it (except in its ice-wine and NLH formats).

But then this wine was in our club's blind tasting competition and I didn't identify it because it was clean fresh and dry, without the oiliness and petrol tones that I dislike. It was my favourite white, so I bought the spare bottle and we had it yesterday with fish.

20220304-weekend-wines-fri-small.jpg

2019 Künstler The Society's Exhibition Rheingau Riesling (Germany, Rheingau)

We enjoyed it, but whether German Riesling fans would I don't know as it was (IMO) unlike other German Rieslings.

As an old grape there must be many clones, but I know nothing about them.

[David M. Bueker]

• 2019 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Golden Capsule) - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/5/2022)
  Young, young, young. This wine does not yet know what it wants to be when it goes up. It’s currently a set of top quality ingredients, but still needs to come together as a whole. The profile is bright at first, with all the lemon cream freshness I expect from a good Sonnenuhr Spätlese, but on the back end is a honey drizzled pineapple element that feels more like a gold capsule wine. I suspect that time will bring all the elements together as a whole. Check back in after 2030.

[Jenise]

I am very nervous about opining on riesling in the presence of Bueker and Rahsaan. I have neither the experience nor the vocabulary to do these wines justice, and perhaps worse I tend to come at the category from a dry-white, chardonnay drinker's perspective. I paired this on Saturday night with a salad of iceberg lettuce and shaved fennel whose dressing was smashed avocado, garlic and lime juice. A spectacular pairing where the salad and wine were each bettered by their partner.

2018 Phelps Creek Vineyards Riesling Van Horn Columbia Gorge
Very pale yellow. Dry, aromatic nose with obvious riesling character of pear, lime peel and mild fresh coconut which highlighted the fennel in the salad. Not as kaleidoscopic as the German imports, natch, but energized by the high acidity and brilliant minerality typical of both Gorge fruit and the Phelps style, it's an exceptional example of dry new world riesling.

[David M. Bueker]

Hmm...Phelps Creek...hmm...stares at credit card bill...hmm...

I had a couple of British Columbian rieslings lately:

• 2020 La Frenz Riesling Clone 49 - Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley (2022-03-08)
  Quite young still, and very disjointed on the first night. The next night it has come together a little bit more. Orange, petrol and mint on the light nose, and orange popsicle, lemon and some saline/minerality notes on the light to medium bodied, very dry, rather austere but interesting riesling. Give this time. (B+)
• 2019 Quails' Gate Estate Winery Riesling B.M.V. - Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley (2022-03-06)
  This very dry Riesling, the top riesling of this Okanagan winery, is more about acid and minerality than fruit. Maybe the volcanic soils? Nice concentration and intensity, and there is some citrus, mainly lemon and lime. Nice now, but should age well too. (A-)

[David M. Bueker]

Overall the Okanagan appears to be the best place in North America for Riesling. Shame that it's so tough to get the stuff in the USA.

2001 Scharzhofberg Riesling Kabinett, Von Hoevel

Brilliant yellow-gold color. Ample and complex aromas and flavors of classic mature riesling, including pears, apricot, tropical fruits, and spice. And a touch of riesling road tar in the background. There is more sweetness than I usually expect from a Kabinett, but the acidity is there to carry it off into a very long, beautiful finish. Maybe this is a declassified spaetlese? Very enjoyable in any case. Curly double Larry.

-Paul W.

Overall the Okanagan appears to be the best place in North America for Riesling. Shame that it's so tough to get the stuff in the USA.

My vote for Canadian rieslings would go to the Niagara region in Ontario, although I do think the Okanagan is making great strides in catching up to the Niagara rieslings. The limestone soils available in Niagara really make a difference for me with rieslings (and Chardonnays). Synchromesh, with their expanded bottlings of riesling and increased vine age, are at the head of the Okanagan pack. It is almost impossible to get wines from either region in the US. Icewines are still the main Canadian wines available internationally, but their supply has really decreased in both BC and Ontario in recent years.