April Wine Focus - Merlot "Star or Co-star?"

[David M. Bueker]

Merlot – does any red grape, used in so many great wines, get so little respect?

Merlot – does any red grape, used in so many great wines, get used in so many lousy wines?

Merlot is at the heart of some truly magnificent wines, the obvious examples being the Bordeaux from Pomerol and St. Emilion. It’s a critical supporting player in Bordeaux from the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated areas such as Pauillac. Merlot has sort of a checkered past elsewhere, with beautiful wines and horrid, soupy messes creating a reputation that ultimately led to the infamous scene in the movie Sideways.

Let’s take a fresh look at Merlot this April. Whether it’s a blend focused on Merlot (anybody got a spare bottle of Petrus to drink?), or a varietally-labeled Merlot does not matter. We’ll take it all, as we try to see if Merlot is still worth caring about.

Drink some %*#$%*@ Merlot!

Merlot – does any red grape, used in so many great wines, get so little respect?

Merlot – does any red grape, used in so many great wines, get used in so many lousy wines?

It's all a matter of place. With Merlot especially, it's the places which get the respect not the grape. In those places, there is usually a vital contribution from the other grapes in the blend. The only 100% (or nearly) Merlot based wines which I have liked have been Pétrus, of course, and Lamaione from the Montalcino area in Tuscany.

[David M. Bueker]

I do want to point out that we are not holding to the 100% rule, so (for example) classic right bank blends are just fine this month.

Nevertheless, I'll try and put my hand on a 100% Merlot this month. Most likely it will be from Languedoc. Maybe I'll be as lucky as Bob was with his Pinot Noir . No problem to find Bordeaux right bank blends and there some good ones starting around €10.

[Robin Garr]

Isn't anybody going to drink some %*#$%*@ Merlot!?

I'll try to find one with decent QPR by the weekend.

[David M. Bueker]

Yes. Later this week or more likely on the weekend. Haven’t had remotely appropriate food.

[Jenise]

We just spent three glorious days tasting wine in Eastern Washington. Lots to report on as soon as I get organized which, natch, will include some merlot since Washington is a state that excels with this grape.

Some thoughts off the top of my head, though: didn't run into as many merlots as I thought I would, but then we did not always have the power of choice (we were there as 'trade') and when we did, we didn't necessarily ask for the merlot vs., say, tempranillo or nebbiolo or a side-by-side of same grape/different AVA's of something else. I know full well that L'Ecole 41 and Saviah make a full-strength merlot, but we didn't get it at either. Merlot frequently appeared in blends, though, which on at least one occasion was introduced as "a St. Emilion style" merlot.

Of the two straight merlots that were poured among the 15 wineries we visited, one was my favorite of that winery's reds and at the other my least favorite. In the latter case, Fidelitas, the pourer's spiel started with "this wine always makes me want barbecue." Sounds crazy, right? Merlot? Well, after tasting it I understood the suggestion: it was meant to plant in our heads an acceptance of the highly toasted oak on that wine. It reminded me of how so many Argentinian malbecs used to taste. Did not care for it.

But that aside, I love merlot, and I have some good ones I look forward to sharing about.

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting comment regarding Fidelitas. My dad bought a good bit of their wine several years ago. Too ripe/too oaky for me.

[Jenise]

Interesting comment regarding Fidelitas. My dad bought a good bit of their wine several years ago. Too ripe/too oaky for me.

That, indeed, is their style. I didn't find them as much so on this visit as I expected to (as compared to a different experience two years ago in Woodinville). But the owner/founder, Charlie Hoppes, is reknowned for his great personality and gigantic heart, and it was truly a great experience meeting him. Which we did, because he's a friend of the friends we were travelling with. And you couldn't ask for a better tasting room. They built it pre-Covid but couldn't have done better if they'd known what was coming: the building is a modern square box of which the southwestern wall is a giant garage door, creating an open wall to the vineyard valley below and setting sun in the distance on the equally huge concrete slab open patio beyond. On a nice day, you don't want to leave.

[Jenise]

Last night with a Granny dinner of pan seared pork chops and mashed potatoes with cream gravy:

2016 Clos de Gat Ha'Rel Merlot, Judean Hills, Israel
Our fourth bottle of six purchased. Even without the fortification of Cabernet Franc, I think this would pass for St. Emilion in a blind tasting. Quoting another reviewer on CT whose description was better than mine: fairly deep ruby color. Aromas of black and dark red fruits, lavender, licorice, leather, and graphite. Medium body, medium (+) acid and finish, lush on the palate, with flavors following suit, along with a bit of spice and minerals." Every bottle so far has been better than the last, and I'm guessing that this one will be stunning by the time it reaches fuller maturity around 2026.

This is a better than average entry level right bank Bordeaux received as a New Year gift for oldsters from our local mayor. Albeit simple and rustic, it is a good quaffer and I much prefer it to overripe and jammy Merlot from warmer regions.

2016 Château Tour Sauvalade - France, Bordeaux (08/04/2021)
From the information I have gleaned from Google, this wine is made by la Cave Coopérative de Lugon (near Fronsac) and is derived up to 95% from Merlot. Opened for cooking purposes, I found the glass I poured surprisingly agreeable in a somewhat rustic vein. The fruit was quite roundly savoury and deep and there was a nice earthy undertow. Acidity was fresh enough to make the wine invigorating and there was decent well covered tannic backbone. The remaining half bottle is being kept for irrigating another meal. Quite good and stunning QPR at the discounted price of c.€4 at a local caviste for a large purchase.
Posted from CellarTracker

I have unearthed a 100% Merlot from Lussac-Saint-Émilion and will post on it shortly.

[David M. Bueker]

The Pride Reserve based on Merlot

2005 Pride Mountain Vineyards Reserve Claret - USA, California, North Coast, Napa / Sonoma (4/8/2021)
Last one, and going out with class. Still showing deep, supple fruit, and a big, wet kiss of the vanilla oak that always marked this wine. It still has some tannin, so there was no rush to drink it. That said I am glad I did, as it made Thursday night a little more fun. Not profound. Just fun.

[Jenise]

That said I am glad I did, as it made Thursday night a little more fun. Not profound. Just fun.

Last week we asked one of the winemakers we called on what his least favorite wine descriptors are. In no particular order: "interesting", "great food wine" and "fun".

[David M. Bueker]

A winemaker who does not like "fun" is a winemaker I never want to meet.

Have a Rasa, DuBrul vineyard, 2015. Noted as 100% Merlot; vintner believes wine will plateau 2022 and keep to 2027. Planning one bottle each for 2021 and 2022. Purchased, ahem, before my frugality strengthened. A splurge as part of a full case.

Any thoughts or experiences with this one?

[David M. Bueker]

Never heard of it.

[Jenise]

A winemaker who does not like "fun" is a winemaker I never want to meet.

Au contraire, you'd love this guy. It was a fun conversation (pun intended).

[Jenise]

Have a Rasa, DuBrul vineyard, 2015. Noted as 100% Merlot; vintner believes wine will plateau 2022 and keep to 2027. Planning one bottle each for 2021 and 2022. Purchased, ahem, before my frugality strengthened. A splurge as part of a full case. Any thoughts or experiences with this one?

Pat, I met and tasted with Billo Naravane last week. What a charming man, and his wines were brilliant across the board. I'd overspent the day before and had promised my friend Margot "I'm only buying one bottle at each place." We had 7 appointments that day. So an hour after saying that I walk into RASA and there went that! The wines are BRILLIANT, and I loaded up. He makes a chardonnay that would pass (and has) for Puligny Montrachet in any blind tasting. I didn't think that was possible, let alone with Washington state fruit. There is, apparently, some vineyard here with limestone, and I was unaware of that. PM is my favorite white wine on the planet, so I bought lots of that plus many more. Easily one of the best winemakers in this state.

'15 was the warmest vintage of the last decade and the wines are very friendly now. And DuBrul is one of our best vineyards at a higher elevation in the Blue Mountains. Your merlot should be exceptional. I look forward to your notes.

[Robin Garr]

Famille Hubert 2017 Château Pey-Bonhomme les-Tours Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux ($19.99)

This red wine from Blaye on Bordeaux's Right Bank is declared biodynamic, certified organic, and using only indigenous yeasts with low sulfites, and, the label declares, "suitable for vegans." It's a blend typical of the region: Primarily Merlot (75%) with smaller portions of Cabernet Franc (15%) and Malbec (10%). It's very dark purple in the glass, shading to a thin clear edge. Dark cherries, subtle mixed berries and a whiff of cherry liqueur elevate the aroma; tart red fruits fill the palate, framed by crisp acidity and soft but perceptibly astringent tannins with 13.6% alcohol. A hint of chalky minerality joins cherry-berry flavors in a long finish. U.S. importer: WineCraft, Cincinnati. (April 8, 2021)

FOOD MATCH: Beef and venison are the standard pairings for this robust Bordeaux, but the label calls it "suitable for vegans," and those red meats certainly won't do for those who avoid animal flesh. We built a vegan spaghetti sauce to match by adding lots of sauteed green peppers, onions, and garlic to an intense but fresh tomato sauce.

WHEN TO DRINK: The back label suggests drinking it within five years, but its structure, flavor, and balance make me think it could go on for a 10-year life span, assuming good cellar conditions.

VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com's $21 average U.S. retail is in sync with my $20 local price; it's probably as good a Right Bank Bordeaux as you're going to get in that price range.

WEB LINK:
You'll find a thorough fact sheet about the wine on the producer's English-language page.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Famille Hubert Château Pey-Bonhomme les-Tours Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux on Wine-Searcher.com.

Read more about Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux at this Wine-Searcher link. Page down to find listings and vendors for dozens of wines of the region.

[David M. Bueker]

That sounds pretty darned good Robin.

[Robin Garr]

I was pleasantly surprised, all right! Definitely tastes above its price.

Have a Rasa, DuBrul vineyard, 2015. Noted as 100% Merlot; vintner believes wine will plateau 2022 and keep to 2027. Planning one bottle each for 2021 and 2022. Purchased, ahem, before my frugality strengthened. A splurge as part of a full case. Any thoughts or experiences with this one?

Pat, I met and tasted with Billo Naravane last week. What a charming man, and his wines were brilliant across the board. I'd overspent the day before and had promised my friend Margot "I'm only buying one bottle at each place." We had 7 appointments that day. So an hour after saying that I walk into RASA and there went that! The wines are BRILLIANT, and I loaded up. He makes a chardonnay that would pass (and has) for Puligny Montrachet in any blind tasting. I didn't think that was possible, let alone with Washington state fruit. There is, apparently, some vineyard here with limestone, and I was unaware of that. PM is my favorite white wine on the planet, so I bought lots of that plus many more. Easily one of the best winemakers in this state.

'15 was the warmest vintage of the last decade and the wines are very friendly now. And DuBrul is one of our best vineyards at a higher elevation in the Blue Mountains. Your merlot should be exceptional. I look forward to your notes.

Thanks, Jenise. Votes of confidence based on actual visits are so helpful. Maybe someday we will be able to do a WA visit for tastings, and maybe re-visit OR on the way home. Maybe.....

[Jenise]

2014 Long Shadows 'Pedestal' 100% Merlot, Washington
If someone were to suggest to me that there's no such thing as serious merlot, I could point to dozens in Washington that would prove them wrong, and this guy might be the first item of evidence I'd introduce. I have had this wine on 'buy and hold' multiple times since its introduction in 2003, and in fact we drank our last one from that vintage just a few years ago--they age wonderfully. This one is just barely ready to drink and still on its way up. From a structured, cooler vintage (at least compared with the rest of the decade), laced with blueberry fruit and covered in dusty tannins, a two hour decant was barely sufficient to nudge out the mocha this will eventually show in spades. It's best moments are still 3-4 years away.

[David M. Bueker]

Always been interested in Long Shadows, just never got around to them. So many wineries, so little cellar space left.