NYTimes: Asimov Takes a 2'nd Look at WashState Syrah

Eric takes a look at WashState Syrah:
WashStateSyrah

When he took a last look in 2005, he found them big/oaky/alcoholic. In this 2'nd look, over 10 yrs later, he grudgingly found there was some improvement, but too many still too powerful & generic. They've not shown the improvement that he found in Calif Syrahs.

Interesting read.
Tom

I can't argue too heatedly in defense of WA Syrah.

I'm not at all surprised that Walla Walla WA/OR showed so well. That's where much of the action is these days.

Fair criticism that much of the syrahs are still to pumped up.

One thing that didn't come out, and couldn't, with the focus on syrah-designated wines, was the often amazing blends they are coming up with---which aren't labeled syrah. Walla Walla has also come light years with both Rhone reds and whites and have embraced the blends. Rotie, for instance, only makes blends, red and white, and does a uniformly superb job with them. Buty does some exceptional stuff, especially now that their riverbed vineyard in Milton-Freewater is fully on line with their Grenache.

And a shame the Maison Bleue didn't make it in. That's good wine. Hell, I even like their well-mannered and restrained chardonnay.

[Jenise]

I've not been as impressed as Hoke with Buty. The young wines are obviously well-made stuff, but the few I've bought (various grapes) haven't developed/matured meaningfully in the bottle to suit my old world tastes. And I don't really know what's happened with the brand since Nina and Caleb split up (she kept the winery).

I was thrilled to see Eric give some love to Reynvaan which has single-handedly caused me to lose my mind over domestic syrah--something I didn't think possible, let alone in WA because overall I don't care for the super-fruity side of the WA style. I own about 60 bottles. Also to TRUST--a different, more feminine style than Reynvaan's rollicking bigness.

The others--eh. Not a fan of Sequel. I've got some 05's--blind, an experienced taster would first guess McClaren Vale. It's a blueberry malt, with that weird sour-lactic thing on the nose and finish typical of many of that region's syrahs that I just can't stand. Possibly not a surprise considering that Aussie John Duval is the winemaker, but it was a shock to naïve-me to realize that this particular attribute was winemaker-caused not terroir as I'd believed.

But all in all pretty dismaying. Although in some ways I agree with their conclusions (too many WA wine drinkers favor the goopy style, so its popular), I don't entirely like the way they got there in that there are many better wineries here than are apparently represented in the NY marketplace. They bought Mark Ryan and were disappointed that it was sweet and oaky--well, that's what you get from Mark Ryan. Grammercy, Betz, Delille's Rhone line whose separate name escapes me at the moment, Maison Bleue and Rotie that Hoke mentioned, and many others show that there are some people here who understand what makes Northern Rhones so spectacular and lean that way in their winemaking.

... there are many better wineries here than are apparently represented in the NY marketplace. ...

I think that's the key. As you and Hoke noted, no Gramercy, Rotie or Maison Bleue. I would add to that list Kerloo and No Girls (a Cayuse offshoot). Haven't had the pleasure of Reynvaan though I have enjoyed their bargain Result of a Crush wines. I was surprised to see Asimov describe Waters as oaky -- the syrahs I've had from there seemed to be made in a low-oak, old world style -- though they did have a change of ownership a few years ago, which might explain that.

[Jenise]

Bruce, ditto re Waters. That description didn't square with what I remember about the winery at all. They're more similar to Trust. Or were, but for a cab franc that didn't impress, I haven't had anything from them since the one winery visit about 2007.

The name of Delille's Rhone line came to me: Doyenne. And I would add Bunnell and Avennia to the list of better syrah producers.

Eric takes a look at WashState Syrah:
WashStateSyrah

When he took a last look in 2005, he found them big/oaky/alcoholic. In this 2'nd look, over 10 yrs later, he grudgingly found there was some improvement, but too many still too powerful & generic. They've not shown the improvement that he found in Calif Syrahs.

Interesting read.
Tom

As expected, the defenders of WashState Syrah are pulling out the knives:
ThirdLookAtWashStateSyrahs

Good grief, folks....all Eric did was play grab-a$$ w/ a set of WashState Syrahs available in NYC, taste them, and writes up his thought on those he tasted. Nobody in their right mind was expecting a comprehensive review of WashState Syrah or a detailed comparison of NRhones vs WashState Syrahs. And to claim that Eric's article deals a devastating blow to the WashState winemakers of Syrah is lunatic-fringe.
Good grief, folks...it's just another EricAsimove wine article in the NYTimes...nothing more.
Tom

Good grief, folks...it's just another EricAsimove wine article in the NYTimes...nothing more.
Tom

But....But....it IS the NEWSPAPER OF RECORD.

EVERYTHING revolved around New York, dontcha know?

[Jenise]

Good grief, folks...it's just another EricAsimove wine article in the NYTimes...nothing more.
Tom

Yeah, like Sideways was just a popular movie, nothing more. Changed sales for merlot and pinot noir irrevocably, that's all.

Reading through the comments on Eric's article last week I recall some guy saying "Wow, thanks for saving me the trouble, I'm just getting into syrah and I'll avoid WA from now on"--or something like that. Sure, he didn't read the deets, but he'll have a lot of company, where a different set of wines and a different bottom line could have created a little gold rush for this state.

Good grief, folks...it's just another EricAsimove wine article in the NYTimes...nothing more.
Tom

Yeah, like Sideways was just a popular movie, nothing more. Changed sales of merlot and pinot noir irrevocably, that's all.

Reading through the comments on Eric's article last week I recall some guy saying "Wow, thanks for saving me the trouble, I'm just getting into syrah and I'll avoid WA from now on"--or something like that. Sure, he didn't read the deets, but he'll have a lot of company, where a different set of wines and a different bottom line could have created a little gold rush for this state.[/quote]

Well, Jenise...I personally think you're conferring too much influence upon Eric than he really has. But YMMV.
Tom

[Jenise]

It's probably less about my belief in Eric's influence than my lack of confidence in the public who don't read discerningly.

In the meantime, excuse me--it's time for me to go place my Reynvaan order.

Jenise may be inflating Asimov's influence a bit too much----but, Tom, you may be discounting it by quite a bit.

Thing about the NYT is---a hell of a lot of target market people "read" it...well, they don't actually read it, they scan and gloos over certain articles. But the paper is everywhere if you're a traveler. Everywhere! So it has influence.

And those people that read it largely react the way Jenise described. Many don't do any more than look at the list and the detracting comments, or the pull quotes that are there to stand out. So in that sense, Jenise is right: this will have some effect on a region that is actually going quite strong and developing into a major stylistic area for pretty damned good wine, and this casual glance and shrug won't do it any good.

It's really journalism at its worst. Hey, guys, let's pick up whatever we can find around here from WA syrah and sit down in the office and taste it and say some stuff about it. That, I'm afraid, is a blase' way to approach an article for the WSJ.

But then, I have always thought that carrying the mantle of 'journalist' in a mjaor outlet conveys a bit of responsibility. That's why I have never billed myself as a journalist.

My three cents, for what little they're worth: I like Asimov a lot. He is a better writer and has a palate far closer to mine than most, if not all, other wine writers for major publications. I believe his policy -- or the New York Times' policy if it exists -- is to only taste wines that are available locally. Which I think is reasonable, considering that even though it has a national circulation, a majority of its readers are, I presume, in the New York metro area.

And that highlights the reality that, outside of a handful of big producers, most high quality Washington wines are only available from the winery and/or retailers in the Pacific Northwest. I only know about them because I frequently travel to Walla Walla for family reasons. And since most don't produce a whole lot of cases, that's probably OK by them. My sense is that many if not most of them sell out each year. Until more vineyards come on line, I'm not sure they'd have the supply to meet increased demand (though obviously they'd benefit from even higher prices).

Interestingly, Asimov traveled to Walla Walla a year or two ago, where he spoke at Whitman College, tasted many wines, and got a tour of vineyard sites by terroir expert and geology professor Kevin Pogue. So I think he knows first-hand what the region is capable of. That said, I don't think he inaccurately represented the wines reviewed in the column. A little more perspective might have been helpful, though.

I don't think he inaccurately represented the wines reviewed in the column. A little more perspective might have been helpful, though.

Agree with that. Both first part and last part.

I also think the policy is wrong. But then, it's not my paper, is it?

[Jenise]

I believe his policy -- or the New York Times' policy if it exists -- is to only taste wines that are available locally. Which I think is reasonable, considering that even though it has a national circulation, a majority of its readers are, I presume, in the New York metro area..

Yes and no. It's the most powerful city newspaper in the country. Canadian friends in Vancouver read it every weekend and send articles to my attention. Several people in my neighborhood read it too--one couples travels 20 miles every Sunday to get a print version (we do, sometimes, too), and a number here are ex-college/university employees who can subscribe digitally (you just need a '.edu' address) for peanuts, something like $10 a month, and do. As do some friends in Los Angeles, Portland and Austin. There are millions more like them, increasingly so as more towns across America shut down their presses. Last month I picked up a copy at a local grocery store in Maui. Los Angeles and Seattle are closer and have excellent papers, but it's the NYT they offered along with the local rag and the WSJ. That the NYT is printed at literally the other edge of this country no longer matters--it's as close as our keyboards. It has become, if you will, America's newspaper.

That's a lot of influence.

My 2 cents. I greatly appreciate the NYT considering the SF Chronicle is IMHO not worthy of being called a newspaper so without it I would be "paperless". I don't get to taste every Syrah from Washington but my impression has been to see many of them as being in the same style as many Napa cabs. By the way it's a style I'm not fond of but I don't represent the average wine fan. I'm sure there are many more Syrahs I would appreciate but they just don't make their way here. I think Eric does well but he and his group of friends do buy locally the wines they taste so they are limited.

My 2 cents. I greatly appreciate the NYT considering the SF Chronicle is IMHO not worthy of being called a newspaper so without it I would be "paperless". I don't get to taste every Syrah from Washington but my impression has been to see many of them as being in the same style as many Napa cabs. By the way it's a style I'm not fond of but I don't represent the average wine fan. I'm sure there are many more Syrahs I would appreciate but they just don't make their way here. I think Eric does well but he and his group of friends do buy locally the wines they taste so they are limited.

Yup....sorta my take as well, Lou. I don't follow WashState Syrah as closely as I'd like. But from the ones
available here in NM, they often show a certain degree of sameness. I've a friend that is very passionate
about WashState Syrah and when he shares one...it's invariably deelish...and not "same ole/same ole".
So I know that they're out there..just don't have the time to chase after them.
As we've been told by a Monktown attourney.."WashState Syrah is a minefield"!!!
Tom

As to the influence of the NYT in wine, retailer friends tell me in the NYC area that when there is a panel tasting the top few wines (especially the #1 and top value) have a huge surge in demand. But it's very temporary, over a few days, as opposed to top picks in the WA and WS which can drive demand for months.
But I don't think there is much residual effect, and negative reviews have little (if any) lasting influence.

The panel always reviews 20 wines , and top 10 are listed. All are things that are available on the shelf in NYC. That makes sense because while it is a national newspaper (3rd after USATday and WSJ) over 50% of distribution is tristate area. As only a tiny percentage of readers are likely to be winegeeks who use Winesearcher or would even think of ordering for shipment, it makes sense to maximize choices of wines available in this market.

If I had to pick a favorite WA Syrah, it would probably be Rotie Cellars Northern, but it is not currently available at retail here.

I think the "Third Look" guy was a bit oversensitive. Asimov acknowledged wines that were missing ("’ excellent wines has pushed them into cult status. His syrahs are now too expensive for our tastings" & "some of the better small-production labels, like Maison Bleue, were not found in any of the retail sites where we buy all our wines." Nor was it dismissive of the category " While we still found more downs than ups, the potential for syrah in Washington seems clear."

I think the "Third Look" guy was a bit oversensitive. Asimov acknowledged wines that were missing ("’ excellent wines has pushed them into cult status. His syrahs are now too expensive for our tastings" & "some of the better small-production labels, like Maison Bleue, were not found in any of the retail sites where we buy all our wines." Nor was it dismissive of the category " While we still found more downs than ups, the potential for syrah in Washington seems clear."

Yup..my thoughts exactly, Dale. I thought Eric threw out enough caveats that his was not the last word on WashStateSyrahs.
Tom

f I had to pick a favorite WA Syrah, it would probably be Rotie Cellars Northern, but it is not currently available at retail here.

I would agree with you, Dale. I like all the Rotie wines, but the "Northern Red" is the finest, and one of the best in the AVA and state.

[Jenise]

Dale said:

Nor was it dismissive of the category " While we still found more downs than ups, the potential for syrah in Washington seems clear."

I actually DO find this dismissive of the category in that it finds the upside only in the potential vs. reality, where the inclusion of just 5 or 6 other/better producers in his sample pack would likely have closed that gap.

But, that said, I'm hearing that this article appears to have shaken up the wine industry here in a good way. It's made them painfully aware that there's a rupture in the distribution system as well as, perhaps, a collective failure at the winery end to produce more syrahs at the level of Cayuse and Reynvaan. It's fairly close to true that among geeks nationwide, for good or bad, few can name any serious WA producers (I'm trying to eliminate Chateau Ste. Michelle here) besides Quilceda Creek and Cayuse.

I actually DO find this dismissive of the category in that it finds the upside only in the potential vs. reality, where the inclusion of just 5 or 6 other/better producers in his sample pack would likely have closed that gap.

But, that said, I'm hearing that this article appears to have shaken up the wine industry here in a good way. It's made them painfully aware that there's a rupture in the distribution system as well as, perhaps, a collective failure at the winery end to produce more syrahs at the level of Cayuse and Reynvaan. It's fairly close to true that among geeks nationwide, for good or bad, few can name any serious WA producers (I'm trying to eliminate Chateau Ste. Michelle here) besides Quilceda Creek and Cayuse.

Hmmmm....maybe you were right, Jenise...Eric does have more influence (outside of NYC) than I gave him credit for.
When I read a wine column of his, I just sorta shrug my shoulders, take note if I learn anything from it, and then go on
to other things. So I'm glad that his article precipitated a discussion in the industry up there.

We can argue till the cows come home (Kansas colloquialism for "forever") about Eric's selection of Syrahs and the
conclusions he drew from tasting them. He seems to acknowledge that there are better ones out there. But that's sorta
Eric's modus operandi for these kinds of article...go out and grab a bunch of wines of that type of the retailer shelves, taste
them w/ colleagues, and then relate what he found from tasting. He (undoubtedly) doesn't have the time to do a lot of
legwork in assembling the wines to taste. So I view his articles and the conclusions he draws as a bit shallow & superficial.
But I always (well...most always) find them of some interest and learn something from them.
Tom

Tom, I enjoy reading Asimov's articles as well (most of the time.) When he is focused and thorough he does a great job with a sensible and down to earth appreciation, and lacking the arrogance that some other wine critics display.

This wasn't one of his best. It was a standard crapshot snapshot,,,just as you described it. One expects more from him and the NYT.

Jenise, it's good for the WA industry to get a reality check every now and then. Shame this article wasn't better done.

As to the 'problems in distribution', hey, that's a long and hard fought battle outside of the region. The paradigm of distributor/wholesalers is so crappy right now, in that the powerful ones pay attention only to the volume brands. They seldom acknowledge the small brands which are almost always worthy of note. Even if they deign to take on a line, they don't want their people spending any time with it.

From their point of view, their sales rep has, at best, 15 minutes (and usually a lot less) to cover their entire portfolio. They also have a team manager providing them with a priority list of what they HAVE to sell if they wish to keep their jobs and make any money. That rare rep who loves wine inordinately is the only one who will occasionally, when he/she can, sell in something arcane like a WA syrah.

[Jenise]

As to the 'problems in distribution', hey, that's a long and hard fought battle outside of the region. From their point of view, their sales rep has, at best, 15 minutes (and usually a lot less)

Oh I understand that, some of my closest friends do it for a living. I wasn't pinpointing the fault. There are issues in sales and issues at the other end of the deal, in those being sold to. Plus, there are far more wines around than any store can afford to stock. Winemakers have to hit the road to change things--many are. Grammercy's owner/winemaker commented yesterday that he didn't have the time to respond to Asimov because he was "too busy selling wine in 35 states and ten export markets".

many are. Grammercy's owner/winemaker commented yesterday that he didn't have the time to respond to Asimov because he was "too busy selling wine in 35 states and ten export markets".

Ayuh. The shambles of our current national/state distribution system sure doesn't make it any easier. At the federal level, the TTTB is toothless and pitiful because underfunded and ignored. At the state level we have 50 totally different entities approaching alcohol beverages differently, each with their own quirks, and most of them, if not outright opposed to alcbev availability, imposing huge stumbling blocks to impede consumers from having easy access to them. Add in the often punitive tax bases and the stranglehold that the big wholesaler/distributors have on the operation and you have a perfect huge steaming mess for the poor little producers to deal with.

And it's true: so many wines and so little shelf space. It is hard to make a go of it if you don't have presence in the market.