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Aging curve for chianti???

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OW Holmes

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Aging curve for chianti???

by OW Holmes » Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:14 pm

What is the aging potential for chianti? Tonight I stumbled across a 1997 Chianti Rufina, Renzo Masi, that cost about $10 six or seven years ago. Totally forgot about it - the last of a case finished several years ago. I'm trying to remember what it tasted like back then. Now, its dark fruit, blueberries I think, really old leather like the cover of an old leather bound book, a little pleasant mustiness, still with dusty tannins and nice acidity. Not dried out at all. Not what I think of as chianti, but really quite nice. Now, I wish I had another bottle so I could see what its like in another 5 years.
I have seen a lot about the aging profile of rhone wines, and bordeaux, and even cali-cabs, but I don't recall reading much about the aging profile for a simple chianti. Just curious. What's your experience?
-OW
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:55 pm

The `97s that I have recently tasted have all been terrific. Most of these wines are in the cellar of one of the owners of my fav winestore. Guess one has to look at the vintage and go from there. We should discuss/taste Chianti more than we do here. Wonder if there is an Open Mike here,OW?? Which are the better years oif late?
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Brian K Miller » Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:24 am

while not stricly speaking a "Chianti" (Sangio/Cab blend) I drank a very, very smooth and smokey and earthy and delicious '97 "Arcibaldo,"`earlier this fall. I liked it enough to buy another bottle.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:52 am

OW and Brian, check out my mystery wine posting!!
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Robin Garr » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:11 am

OW Holmes wrote:What is the aging potential for chianti?


OW, adding to what the others have said, 1997 was an exceptional vintage through Tuscany, and it's still drinking beautifully. A 1997 was the wine of the afternoon during my recent Tuscan Seminar at the Four Seasons, where it easily drew the most raves from an audience of wine writers and a few trade people sampling the 15 top rated wines from the October Siena competition.

That being said, the usually reliable Hugh Johnson shows '95, '97 and '99 currently at peak for basic Chianti, with all younger vintages best held for maturing; and essentially the same for Chianti Classico; he recommends drinking '88 through '97 Riserva now and holding all others for maturing.

Even with the changes and added flexibility in the Chianti DOC in recent years, the Tuscans have done a fine job of holding the line and requiring some level of traditional wine making in Chianti. I think the wisdom of adding the IGT categories, opening them up for experimentation while keeping the DOCs traditional, is going to pay off in the long run.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by OW Holmes » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:31 am

Thanks, all. I have been pretty much ignoring chianti while concentrating on my favorite regions (So. Rhone, bordeaux, Rioja and Ribera, etc.) but have a little of it down. I just checked, and Parker's vintage chart says 97, 99, and 01 are the best vintages in the last ten years in Tuscany, with 03 and 04 pretty good but not outstanding. 02 got panned. No rating yet on 05. 99-01 and 04 are described as "early maturing and accessible. At my age, that's important. Guess I'll see if I can find some 01 or 04.
-OW
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by wrcstl » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:45 am

OW,
This is something I work on and try hard to understand. Chianti, like many regions depend on the vintage, producer and flavor profile you are looking for. IMHO, good Chianti Classico from a good year will be close to peak at 5 years and easily go 10+. I started collecting vintages in '95 and still have some of most years in my cellar. My take on recent years of good juice.

1995-great year, classic, just bought '95 Felsina Rancia and expect wines to last several more years

1997-Hyped year due to big fruit and ease of drinking. I much prefer '99 and '01 but have to say all I have drank have been good. Sorta like drinking '00 Bordeaux vs '01, what style do you like? Only have 2 bottles left in the cellar.

1998 - I liked this year due to the acidity which made it a good food wine but it has pretty much faded.

1999-Buy it, drink it, and buy more. Along with 2001 this is IMHO one of the best vintages. I have opened a few and they have all been good. Definitely a 10 plus year vintage.

2000-I like this year, good fruit, sort of a calmed down 1997. I have been drinking these while waiting on '99 and '01

2001-Classic, strutctured, long ager. Definetly a 10+ year wine. My favorite along with '99.

2002 - Terrible year, drink it up. Interestingly many declassified their juice and did not make single vineyard stuff but resulted in an OK drink, just nothing worth saving.

2003 - No experience, victim of my "don't buy any wines from 2003" rule.

2004 - Have drank a lot of "market stuff" and enjoyed. Haven't really thought about this vintage but like it and should age for at least 5+ years.

I am not an expert but truly enjoy Sangiovese (only made in Italy!!!). The above is based on my preference for structured wine with a dose of acid. These are our go to food wines. In summary good Chianti Classico from a good year easily goes 10 years and then some.

Walt
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by RichardAtkinson » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:00 am

Great rundown on Chianti vintages, Walt. I agree with all of it. Except, you might be missing a beat with some 03's.

We're drinking the 2003 Monte Antico right now. At $9.00, its our House Chianti until the supply runs out. Also the 2003 Querceto Chianti Classico is a good QPR @ $10.00...if you can still find it.

I think 2003 helped what would otherwise have been "lesser" wines. And somewhat hindered the "better" wines since the hot weather took those wines farther out of the norm.

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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by wrcstl » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:33 am

RichardAtkinson wrote:I think 2003 helped what would otherwise have been "lesser" wines. And somewhat hindered the "better" wines since the hot weather took those wines farther out of the norm.

Richard


Richard,
You are probably correct but with a bulging cellar and a weak will I use these gross generalizations to try and reduce purchases. I am sure I will try a few '03 and as you say the market stuff probably benefited most. Have to admit to drinking some nice '03 village Chablis but that is another area where the acid many times withstood the warm weather. Definitely will not be buying any '03 Bordeaux. Maybe my rule should be "don't buy any '03 to age".
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by OW Holmes » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:48 am

Walt, thanks for the vintage information. I just checked my spreadsheet, and I have LOTS of holes in it, and what I have is mostly the wrong years. I will rectify that.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by wrcstl » Thu Dec 14, 2006 12:03 pm

OW Holmes wrote:Walt, thanks for the vintage information. I just checked my spreadsheet, and I have LOTS of holes in it, and what I have is mostly the wrong years. I will rectify that.
-w


If you are trying to fill in I would recommend just grabbing CC in '99 and '01. They are beginning to dissapear but some still around.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by OW Holmes » Thu Dec 14, 2006 12:16 pm

wrcstl wrote: If you are trying to fill in I would recommend just grabbing CC in '99 and '01. They are beginning to dissapear but some still around.
Walt


Exactly what I was thinking. Thanks.
-OW
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:41 pm

Great job on the mystery wine over there OW!!!
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Oliver McCrum » Thu Dec 14, 2006 8:52 pm

Robin Garr wrote:Even with the changes and added flexibility in the Chianti DOC in recent years, the Tuscans have done a fine job of holding the line and requiring some level of traditional wine making in Chianti. I think the wisdom of adding the IGT categories, opening them up for experimentation while keeping the DOCs traditional, is going to pay off in the long run.


Robin,

How have the Chianti producers 'held the line?'
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by MtBakerDave » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:05 pm

The aging potential for Chianti is certainly good, for the good ones. I recently helped drink a <b>1962 Fattoria Montagliari Chianti Classico Riserva Selezione Vigna di Casaloste</b>. It was definitely an 'old lady' wine - well past its' peak, but not quite dead yet, and still even showing some charm. Definitely a fun evening drinking that one! I'd say the best of the '97s probably have some years in them yet.

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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Oliver McCrum » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:38 pm

OW Holmes wrote:What is the aging potential for chianti? Tonight I stumbled across a 1997 Chianti Rufina, Renzo Masi,


That depends on the Chianti. All of the Chianti appellations taken together make a great deal of wine, and that wine ranges in quality from the kind of straightforward 'spaghetti red' that used to be sold in straw-covered bottles to magnificent ageworthy icons like Castell'in Villa.

Price gives you some indication of the winemakers intent, though, and the bottles of Masi Rufina I've had weren't intended for cellaring long. (The Rufina is the most serious part of Chianti outside the Classico, though. I once asked Piero Antinori what non-Classico Chiantis he'd had that were interesting, and he named Selvapiana, which is in Rufina.)
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Robin Garr » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:06 pm

Oliver McCrum wrote:How have the Chianti producers 'held the line?'


Simple enough, Oliver: They've managed to avoid following the points-chasing muse to the extent that most Chiantis retain at least a vestige of traditional character and don't fall into the universal modern niche that makes Sicilian Nero d'Avola and Central Coast Pinot Noir and Barossa Syrah taste like they came out of one large vat.

Having recently judged the biennial Tuscan wine competition in Siena and been exposed to a *lot* of Chianti and other Tuscan reds, I'm comfortable making this broad statement. I might not make the same statement about IGT Toscana.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Victorwine » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:16 pm

Here’s a Vintage Chart Lowdown of Chianti Wines from “Wines on the Web” (WOW).
http://www.wineontheweb.com/vintage/chi ... ianti.html
BTW Walt excellent breakdown of Chianti wines.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:27 pm

I have been surprised and impressed by the improvements I have seen in Sangiovese in the bottle. Much more than I would have thought. It apparently is somewhat "serious" wine. I have seen pretty unfriendly wines turn into "swans" after 3-4 years (after I had completely given upon them). IMHO Sangiovese will make dramatic improvement with 3-5 years of bottle aging. Obviously the ones that are drinking well now will probably not get better. Play around with them and report back.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Charley Hood » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:45 pm

OW, we just had the 59 Fossi Chianti Classico in September of this year. I had acquired 3 bottles of this wine in 1983, after having it at a Les Amis du Vin tasting. We had consumed the first two bottles some time ago, but I had been saving the last for my sister-in-law, as that was her birth year wine.

As with the prior two bottles, this delivered a lot of bright cherry character with a good degree of complexity from age. Admittedly, we had very small pours among twelve people and consumed it very quickly after opening, but, again, this was a 47 year old wine!

I still have one each of the 61 and 74 from Fossi, as well as some Monsanto Il Poggio from the early 70's. I'm hoping each will be just as pleasurable.

As with any wine, I suppose the producer and vintage are the most important concerns.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by James Roscoe » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:52 pm

Charley Hood wrote:OW, we just had the 59 Fossi Chianti Classico in September of this year. I had acquired 3 bottles of this wine in 1983, after having it at a Les Amis du Vin tasting. We had consumed the first two bottles some time ago, but I had been saving the last for my sister-in-law, as that was her birth year wine.

As with the prior two bottles, this delivered a lot of bright cherry character with a good degree of complexity from age. Admittedly, we had very small pours among twelve people and consumed it very quickly after opening, but, again, this was a 47 year old wine!

I still have one each of the 61 and 74 from Fossi, as well as some Monsanto Il Poggio from the early 70's. I'm hoping each will be just as pleasurable.

As with any wine, I suppose the producer and vintage are the most important concerns.


I would remind you that from your s-i-l's perspective, a 47 year old is still relatively young. Long live the '59s! :D

I have to admit that I am finding this really educational and useful. Thanks to all who are adding in their knowledge.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by OW Holmes » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:29 am

I am definitely headed for Russo's (Italian wine store) this afternoon. Thanks all for the information. I will look for 99, 01 and I am thinking maybe also 04. Any specific recommendations?
-OW
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by wrcstl » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:41 am

OW Holmes wrote:I am definitely headed for Russo's (Italian wine store) this afternoon. Thanks all for the information. I will look for 99, 01 and I am thinking maybe also 04. Any specific recommendations?


OW,
Lots to choose from but my favorite is Felsina, they make a CC, Rancia and Fontalloro. Their best, IMHO, is Rancia but the regular CC is an annual buy. There wines are somewhat widely distributed. I am opening a '95 Tignanello, the first of my 6 bottles, tonight and will post a TN.
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Re: Aging curve for chianti???

by Clinton Macsherry » Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:44 pm

wrcstl wrote:Lots to choose from but my favorite is Felsina, they make a CC, Rancia and Fontalloro.


Walt, just FYI, Felsina also bottles a CC Riserva, perhaps strictly for export. I've not compared personally, but I believe it's considered a tier-drop down from the Rancia, and is priced accordingly.
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