by Tim York » Sat Dec 09, 2006 4:53 pm
Marques de Riscal Reserva 2001
When this morning I saw the bottle at Rob, the Brussels temple of gastronomy, I thought immediately of contributing to the Open Mike, a system to which Bob has recently introduced me. At EUR 16,40 it was EUR 2 dearer than I have seen in a supermarket but I took it because the lamb on the menu this evening seemed a good accompaniment.
These are my notes written up without looking at other people’s impressions.
At the first sniff upon opening, I thought “oh dear!”. The impression was sweet and sour with the sweet being vanilla, coconut and cigar box and the sour being sour cherry, all in separate strands. Happily after 10 minutes in the glass, the aroma was better integrated with some deeper fruit coming up but the vanilla patina was still quite present.
The palate showed the same aromas with the sweet dominating the sour and was well shaped with flesh and a quite firm tannic structure and good length but, on the after-taste, dry and slightly bitter notes dominated sweet fragrance. There were hints of malt and liquorice in mid-palate towards the finish.
For me this wine did not sing but there was no difficulty in finishing the bottle. My wife liked it better than me being less troubled by the malt, vanilla and liquorice notes. It was much more drinkable than some blockbusting and oaky “modern” Riojas which I have tasted. It is probably too young now and hopefully will be more integrated and expressive in 5+ years.
Will it ever become one of those sweetly elegant and beautifully balanced Riojas which I have enjoyed in verticals of, say, CVNE’s Imperial going back to the 50s? Or is it capable of effacing my memories of (incredibly cheap, approx Pesetas 250) Rioja during my frequent visits to Spain during the 70s, when Marques de Riscal itself and Marques de Murrieta, in particular, opened up new vistas to my then Médoc orientated palate? I doubt it.
But I may buy a few bottles out of curiosity to see what happens.
Tim York