by Joshua Kates » Sun Aug 26, 2012 2:51 pm
I must add my thanks to Julia B. and Mike Hughes (as well as Tom N), and Joel and Sally, and chef Alan,
As a first time Mocooler the event completely exceeded my expectations. Not only was almost everyone warm and gracious (beginning with Julia, Mike, Joel and Sally), but the wines were absolutely unprecedented. I could not believe the range and quality of wines I got to try. As Sam Platt said elsewhere, it showed unparalleled generosity on the part of all (including Dale Williams who did not even attend).
In the service of giving people an idea of what could be had, as well as in the hope of receiving corrections (and better tasting notes than my own), as taken by others, I am pasting in below a list of wines (some with brief comments) that I drank Fri and Sat PM. These are basically all from memory (written down after each event), and, almost unbelievably, they omit a large number of wines that I personally did not taste.
MoCool 2012 Winetastings
Friday Night
1) 2010 Gueguen Chablis Fouchaume—nice, though young, everything it should be, good fruit and cut
2) Schlumberger Grand Cru
3) Savennieres (producer?)
3a) 2002 Corton Clos du Roi, Remoissenet
4) *1975 Clos du Val; amazingly well preserved and ready to drink—not a collectors item. A fine example of their style.
5) 1997 Broman Cabernet Sauvignon—good truffle/mushroom nose, as well as cedar, with still decent fruit—not as tannic as last time; drinking well.
6) **1999 (91?) Dominus from magnum, one of my WOTN’s. Really hitting its sweetspot. Some fruit still hanging on, but big tannins and high acid, now somehow resolved in a harmonious whole.
7) *2001 Caymus S. S. To my palate still a baby, but everything was there: depth of fruit, balance; just needs time. (It seems as if the S.S is still in older style; none of the cloying blueberry flavors here.)
8) 87 Chave Hermitage
9) 1995 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chappelle
10) 1995 Colombier Hermitage
a)* One of these two wines was my other red WOTN (I think it was the Jaboulet, but I may be wrong. Well-rounded dark fruit with an extraordinarily long, complex finish).
Saturday Afternoon—Main Tasting
1) Champagnes
a) Dom Perignon 1990(?): sweeter than I expected; crystalline structure; powerful, seemed young—my first Dom P, not familiar with the style
b) **Taittinger 2002; yeasty, complex, a delight
c) Barnaut Brut N.V
d) *Barnaut Rose N. V Lovely, great version of rose champagne imho
2) Whites
a) Burgundy
2010 Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet; a pleasure, though young
b) German
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese
2009 Donhoff Oberhauser Brucke Auslese
special bottle available only at auction
My first time with these—both truly extraordinary; complex, mineral, enormous amount going on; made me understand the fascination
3) Red Burgundy
1) 1967 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux (surprisingly lively!)
2) 1983 Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin (corked, I fear)
3) *1992 Clos Vougeout V.V. Misset (lively, intense, good minerality and length; never heard of this producer before)
4) 1995 Pascal Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur (another unknown producer)
5) *1996 Domaine Germaine Bourgogne (Still good fruit, alive and intense)
6) *1997 Gevrey Chambertin Raphet (almost syrupy, but surprisingly powerful, interesting overtones of briar)
7) 1997 Camus Latriciere-Chambertin
8) 1997 Maume Charme-Chambertin (still a little closed, not as evolved, needed to open)
9) 2000 Aloxe Corton Chateau Aloxe Corton
10) 2004 NSG Gouge (a little green, but powerful, minerality on the edges)
11) *2004 Mortet G.V.C. Mes Cinq Terroirs (still powerful, almost a streak of blood, something sauvage, with classic dark Gevrey fruit)
12) 2005 Volnay Jacques Prieur Santenot 1cru (very high-toned, roses, almost perfumed, at first too delicate, closed, but continued to improve, real depth, still too young?)
13) 2008 Bouchard Beaune Clos de la Mousse
4) Red Bordeaux
A) Montrose
1) 1966 Great nose, bricking but still some red, drinking quite well
2) 1970 Cloudy, bretty, weak (might be bottle variation)
3) 1975 Signature bordeaux, right in its prime (thanks to Dale!)
4) 1979 *Drinking quite well now, good acid but not too much
5) ***1982 Amazing wine: big, bold, tannins are resolved but residual richness of chocolate, tobacco, and smoke alongside stunning fresh, but not at all jammy fruit; the total package.
6) *1986 Big bold, but still backward, slight trace of iron or sauvage, but needs time
7) 1990** Very strong full, cocoa, more fruit forward, a delight, but not, IMHO, the 1982
8) 1996 Graphite in the nose, drinking well
9) 1997 Nice
10)1999 (Magnum)
11) 2000 *Minty intriguing nose, followed by full complex fruit, showing some of the iron of the 1986
12) 2002
13) 2004 Good nose, earth in the mouth along w/the usual fruit
14) 2006 (Magnum) Decanted five hours, shows promise, good balance, streak of iron, dark fruits, but still tightly wound
B) Other Red Bordeaux
1) 1929 Marquis-de-Terme
2) 1955 Chateau Fougeuayrat St. Emilion
3) 1983 Lynch-Bage
4) ***1989 Lynch-Bages (powerful, tobacco, fruit is totally present and integrated)
5) Brunello
1) 2001 Casanova de Neri
2) 2001 Casanova de Neri Tenuta Nuova
Interesting comparison; the first subtler, more interesting; the latter, more heavily oaked, fruitier; tasted again among others, the second stood out
3) 2001 (?) * Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Piaggia I had never heard of this wine and I am not sure of the vintage, but it really stood out for me: solid, complex.
6) Barolo
1) 1978 Giacomo Borgogno Riserva (corked, sadly)
2) 1996 Azelia San Rocco—was showing well, nice rose petals on the nose and tar in mouth
3) 1997 Joel’s; I found impressive, but don’t remember producer.
4) 2001 Prunetto Barolo Bussia