April Wine Focus - Spring in Alsace

[David M. Bueker]

Folks,

Just establishing the topic for this month's Wine Focus - Alsace. Time to bust out the Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir...am I missing something in that list...I could have sworn there was something else...oh wait...Riesling!

I have no doubt that we will eventually end up debating the level of residual sugar that is appropriate for an Alsatian wine, and whether there should be a universal system to let people know how dry or sweet their wine of choice may be.

So as it is spring in the northern hemisphere (and snowing in New England), welcome to April and Alsace!

...I could have sworn there was something else...oh wait...Riesling!

...and maybe Chasselas, Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin rosé) and Chardonnay (Crémant d´Alsace)...

I just picked up a Weinbach Muscat, might have to bust it open. For science's sake of course. Now that I think of it, I have a Schoffit Chasselas. I bet I'll be the only reviewer of that grape!

A note and a question. I recently bought and tried an unknown to me Alsatian Pinot Gris; the Beck-Hartweg Frankstein 2006 and was a little disappointed in it. There was lots of big spicey pear fruit but the acidity was not up to balancing it.
Said to be marked down from $36 to $20 so I was expecting more.

I also recently bought some Gewurztraminer from one of my favorite Alsatian producers; 2008 Weinbach Res. Personnelle, their entry-level Gew. and back label says "off-dry". I'm guessing 2-3 % residual sugar. Can anyone confirm this?

Ohio is a poor place to buy quality Alsatian wine , with the excdeption of Albert Mann, so will load up while in D.C. soon.

Ohio is a poor place to buy quality Alsatian wine , with the excdeption of Albert Mann, so will load up while in D.C. soon.

Albert Mann should be no hardship . Apparently his Pinot Noir is one of the best.

Another Alsatian question. I have two bottles of 1995 Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederick Emile that I've held since release but am waiting for a special occasion to open one (maybe MoCool). My only other experience with Freddie is the 1990 opened in 2000 that was fabulous. My guess is that these 2 bottles are still going strong and have lots of life ahead of them but could be consumed now. What do others think?

[David M. Bueker]

Jim,

I can't find any definite info, but I do know that Tanzer wasn't a fan of the Gewurz. He rated the Cuvee Theo an 87, and mentioned that he preferred it over the Reserve Personelle due to its better acidity and depth. I might expect your bottle to be a bit "fat."

But who knows...folks on CellarTracker liked it much more than Tanzer, though "honey" comes up in reviews which is nto terribly promising re: acidity.

[David M. Bueker]

Another Alsatian question. I have two bottles of 1995 Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederick Emile that I've held since release but am waiting for a special occasion to open one (maybe MoCool). My only other experience with Freddie is the 1990 opened in 2000 that was fabulous. My guess is that these 2 bottles are still going strong and have lots of life ahead of them but could be consumed now. What do others think?

IMO, you are just getting into the good drinking window for that wine.

So my 2003 of the CFE is probably still in its crib?

[David M. Bueker]

So my 2003 of the CFE is probably still in its crib?

Unprecedented year for which I will make no prognostications.

In the sense of good timing, I just received this pr letter extolling the virtues of Alsace wines, especially with foods at this time of year.

Some of the top chefs are getting on board with Alsace wines too.

In Boston, Chef Jean Joho of Brasserie JO is eagerly looking forward to the arrival of Maryland soft-shell crabs. A native of Alsace and one of the most avid fans of its wines, Joho will showcase a range of Alsace wines by-the-glass this season. At his restaurant Everest in Chicago, Chef Joho will feature slow roasted spring lamb and sweet garlic flan with an Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris. In fact, the restaurant focuses on the wines of Alsace, not only because of Chef Joho’s heritage, but also because of his belief that in “no other region of France are food and wine so tightly intertwined as in Alsace.”

In Cambridge, MA, Chef Tony Maws of Craigie-on-Main has his sights on milder weather, as he unveils a daikon milk-poached Mediterranean loup de mer (sea bass), with a dry Riesling from Alsace.

Meanwhile, at The Modern in New York City, Chef Gabriel Kreuther treats diners to some delicious wine and food match-ups this spring, drawing on the restaurant’s considerable cellar of Alsace wines. His diver scallop rosette, a “crudo” style dish, calls for a young Alsace Riesling, while the tempting butter-poached Maine lobster with morel mushrooms and green asparagus, is well suited for a textured Pinot Blanc.

Fellow New York restaurateur and Alsace native, Chef Luc Dimnet, executive chef of Brasserie, is particularly fond of such spring favorites as peas, fava beans, asparagus and rhubarb. He even admits to “craving” Pinot Blanc this time of year, which he finds pairs exceptionally well with the fresh notes of baby vegetables.

OMG, I love Alsatian wines....
I quite often show them in my wine classes whenever I get a chance.

I picked up a 2002 Deiss Engelgarten tonight to see what all the hoopla is about.

Beblenheim Riesling 2006 – Domaine Trapet, Alsace – (c.€12). This was my last bottle of three started in November 2008 and it remains an absolutely delicious example of a dry village Riesling, showing while floral and intensely mineral aromas with hints of hydrocarbon on a crisply nervy body with just enough flesh for balance and good length; 16.5/20++ QPR!. (This estate which was new to me is owned by the wife of Burgundian Jean-Louis Trapet http://www.domaine-trapet.com/alsace.htm ; definitely an estate to follow.)

Nice note Tim.

I am wondering if there is anyone here with extensive knowledge of the Alsace area. Languedoc and Portugal had some great visitors who knew the area really well. One such person here would be an advantage eh.

Nice note Tim.

I am wondering if there is anyone here with extensive knowledge of the Alsace area. Languedoc and Portugal had some great visitors who knew the area really well. One such person here would be an advantage eh.

I seem to remember a Norse thunder god knowing a thing or two about the region.

Nice note Tim.

I am wondering if there is anyone here with extensive knowledge of the Alsace area. Languedoc and Portugal had some great visitors who knew the area really well. One such person here would be an advantage eh.

I seem to remember a Norse thunder god knowing a thing or two about the region.

If I remember correctly Thor left this board after a disagreement with management; he certainly knows the region well.

Scanning Amazon for writers in English on the subject reminds me that Tom Stevenson does a periodic Alsace Report http://www.wine-pages.com/guests/tom/alsace-2009.pdf .

Liz Berry, formerly of La Vigneronne in South Kensington, wrote a book on Alsace many years ago but never updated it. She and Mike now run a wine shop at Saint-Martin de Crau in Provence http://www.vinsfinsdelacrau.com .

I guess that David B is our currently resident expert.

[David M. Bueker]

My understanding of Alsace is merely a shadow of Thor's but I will try to stand in. I can always ask questions off the board. We can also e-mail producers. We'll find a way.

[David M. Bueker]

2002 Albert Boxler Riesling Reserve
The temperature may not feel exactly spring like, but the sun is high in the sky, and it's a pretty day. 9 years on this wine is a beautiful golden color, with lemon rind and warm stone aromas. It's brightly acidic, focused, lemony and finishes with a steely tartness that demands attention and food! Fans of the austere might age this a bit longer, but I don't think there will be profit in time.

Excellent map here, courtesy of Kobrand.....>

http://www.kobrandwineandspirits.com/ma ... alsace.php

Alsace? OK: Robert Karcher Sylvaner 2007. No nose, but this had the acid and body to wash down Friday night’s fish fry and was still good sipping while watching yesterday’s basketball. Grass with a hint of chalk, nothing complicated but a really good deal at $10 a bottle. I don’t know why this grape has such a bad reputation.

My understanding of Alsace is merely a shadow of Thor's but I will try to stand in.

Well, if it's a shadow of Thor's, then your memory is short, with a large round circular region around the top much larger than the body of the shadow.

2001 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile
12.5% abv

Kate Moss of wines. Lots of hype, serious coinage involved, air of mystery and glamor, but in the end it's just heroin chic. There was some promise in the nose, petrol and coconut (does this wine see any wood, I couldn't figure this one out). Shining acid all of a lemon type, and the barest hint of some sort of fruit like wine flavor. Austere? This wine is positively chilly and barren. This wine will not return your phone call. Ok, not unfriendly but certainly not welcoming in any way. Shut down? Hell if I know but it seems to be 10 years is plenty of time for it to reveal something, certainly at this price point. Then again it could be user error, after all people like me probably shouldn't be trusted with wines like this. I'm getting the feeling the Trimbach family of Riesling is just not my thing, tending towards the Zaftig in this and other arenas as I do.

[David M. Bueker]

2001 Trimbach CFE is definitely not Kate Moss. I would go for Cate Blanchett.

And 10 years is often not nearly enough for this wine to show anything, much less its best.