December Wine Focus: Home for the holidays!

[Robin Garr]

"Give the Gift of a New Wine Experience"

The idea of Wine Focus this month is simple and seasonal: Select something that you would want to introduce to others (i.e. something special to you that many others may not appreciate...yet), or something new and different to you (perhaps something from a gift exchange, those are always intersting - in both good and bad ways). So let's step away from the tried and true, and explore wines from less well known regions (e.g. Greece, Brazil, even Israel and Lebanon for those who don't know the wines yet) or less well known grapes (who hears a Norton?).

Gentlefolk, start your corkscrews!

Hah!!! You were all certain that I'd post about an Israeli wine. Well....who would I be to disappoint. Here's my tasting note for the recently released Rom of the Golan Heights Winery. Unquestionably the best wine ever released in Israel. No fear though, I'll be posting shortly about wines from neighbors - Lebanon, Cyprus, Greece, Turkey and Jordan.


Golan Heights Winery, Rom, 2006: A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer-lot (37%, 34% and 29% respectively), a selection of grapes from eight different vineyards, seven on the Golan and one in the Upper Galilee, the wines blended nine months after harvest. Oak-aged in French barriques for a total of 21 months and bottled without filtration. A wine to follow in stages, for at this point in its development it opens so fruit-forward, with ripe blueberries, cherries and red currants, that some may actually mistakenly think it sweet. Even now, however, that sensation passes quickly to reveal a full-bodied, well-extracted and remarkably intense wine with aromas and flavors that literally flood the palate. As the wine continue to develop and as its elements come fully together look for notes of fresh herbs, espresso coffee and hints of both anise and cinnamon. Israel’s best wine ever. Superb now but best from 2014–2022, perhaps longer. Score 96. K

Best
Rogov

Hah!!! You were all certain that I'd post about an Israeli wine. Well....who would I be to disappoint. Here's my tasting note for the recently released Rom of the Golan Heights Winery. Unquestionably the best wine ever released in Israel. No fear though, I'll be posting shortly about wines from neighbors - Lebanon, Cyprus, Greece, Turkey and Jordan.

Rogov,

Please forgive my ignorance on this matter but what is the general attitude towards alcohol consumption in predominately Muslim counties such as Lebanon, Jordan and Turkey? One reads about no (official) alcohol in countries such as Saudi Arabia and Iran but I wonder about others in the region.

There must be local demand to make great wines like the one you described here or is the demand elsewhere?

I look forward to the other reviews.

Dave

WTN: 2007 Deer Run Winery Corot Noir
This is my first exposure to this grape. It's a red hybrid developed at Cornell and named in 2006 http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/hort/faculty/reisch/bulletin/Corot_noir.pdf. I'm interested in planting this in my back yard vineyard. Closed with synthetic cork. Fairly deep color, with a purplish hue. Based on general descriptions I've read, this is much darker than I expected. On the nose, no distinct hybrid aromas whatsoever. Cedar, cocoa, black cherries and some earthy notes. The label says 11.3% ABV, but it tastes much richer. Full, but medium-short, dry finish. Not a lot of tannin, but a nice, juicy acidity. If someone poured me a glass of this blind and asked me to identify the grape, I'd say it resembles Pinot Noir, but with a bit less character, like someone blended Pinot Noir with a more neutral grape. Quite enjoyable! This is also my first experience with the winery. It is located on Conesus Lake, the westernmost of the Finger Lakes - about 30 miles south of Rochester, about 60 miles from my home. I plan on trying other wines made from this grape.

I plan on doing reports on a few Niagara County, NY wineries this month. Here's a link to a recent article about the area: http://palatepress.com/2010/11/visiting-state-side-of-niagara-wine-country/

The island of Cyprus is precisely 25 minutes by air from Israel's Ben Gurion International Airport so I suppose this fits comfortably into the category of being in "my neighborhood".

Cyprus has a 2,500-year recorded history of winemaking and so highly valued were these wines in antiquity that Ya’in Kafrisin (wine from Cyprus) is said to have been used to steep one of the 11 spices in the incenses used in the First and Second Temples.

The Lambouri family has produced wine on the island for more than 300 years and today owns and operates a boutique winery with current production of about 75,000 bottles annually. Although the winery is located in the vil-lage of Kato Platres the vineyards are on the southern slopes of the Trodos Mountains, where the climate and soil conditions are remarkably similar to those of Israel’s Upper Galilee. The family started producing kosher wine in 2007. To date this has been the only kosher wine released on the island.

Lambouri, Ya’in Kafrisin, Limassol, Cyprus, 2007: Dark garnet with orange and purple reflections, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mavro and Grenache Noir grapes showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and good balancing acidity. Opens to show an appealing range of blackcurrant, blackberry and purple plum fruits, and notes of bitter-orange peel, those on a background of white pepper and Oriental spices, with the tannins and fruits rising on the finish. A fine first kosher wine from a boutique winery. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K

Thanks all for interesting notes.

Howie, new one to me. Link says it's a cross between Seyve Villard (which I've never heard of, related to Seyval? ) and Steuben- is latter lambrusca?

Daniel, thanks for notes. While Israeli wines are possible to find here (large store in Riverdale, about 20 minutes from me, with 100s of kosher wines, including many Israeli) I only buy if going to a Seder, as I don't have a clue as to what to try. This one sounds like a winner.

Are most Cypriot wines from French varieties? Or are there native or Greek varieties?

David, interesting questions, I think maybe Rogov missed but hopefully he'll see. I've had a lot of Lebanese wines (mostly Musar but also Kafraya and Ksara (sp?). The only other wines I've had from Islamic countries were the Algerian and Moroccan wines one used to see in NYC on occasion, I haven't seen lately but I haven't really looked. I'd guess that the Lebanese wineries might have significant local consumption, as a sizable portion of the population is still Christian. But the North African countries are almost exclusively Islamic (Algeria almost became an Islamic state not that long ago). I'd be curious as to what the story is (I know friends found beer and wine quite available in Morocco, but unsure re what locals do).

And yes I realize that Algeria and Morocco are farther from Israel than France and Italy are!

[Robin Garr]

TSteuben- is latter lambrusca?

Dale, Howie probably has more detales, but I'm pretty sure that Steuben is a modern grape from the NY State experimental station at Geneva, and I'm fairly sure it's a cross of two other labrusca grapes.

...Howie, new one to me. Link says it's a cross between Seyve Villard (which I've never heard of, related to Seyval? ) and Steuben- is latter lambrusca? ...

Seyve-Villard were two Frenchmen who made many hybrids during the first half of the 20th century. Their specific hybrids and designated by the initials SV, followed by a number, which is sometimes hyphenated. Often, if one of their hybrids (they did hundreds to get a successful plant) becomes commercially viable, it gets a name. Seyval Blanc was originally SV 5-276. SV 18-307, while crossed by the same people, may or may not be somehow related to Seyval Blanc. In the attached links to the ancestry of the grapes, S-#### indicates a Seibel hybrid. Other earlier hybridizers included Kuhlmann (mostly noted for Foch) and Ravat (Vignoles). Steuben is a complicated hybrid with both labrusca and vinefera ancestry. It is cold hardy and disease resistant, features which attracted it to the developers at Cornell. It is grown mostly as a table grape (looks like Concord), but I make a rosé from it every year. Here are a few links:
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/hort/faculty/reisch/genealogy/steuben.gif
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/hort/faculty/reisch/genealogy/Corot_noir.GIF
http://www.bunchgrapes.com/steuben_grapes.html

[David M. Bueker]

Westport Rivers Blanc de Noir (Westport, MA)
At a Champagne & Sparkling Wine gala today, I was poured this little wine from Massachusetts. Not bad at all. Good balance, pleasant red fruit flavors and a clean finish. Not a bad choice for a party.

David, interesting questions, I think maybe Rogov missed but hopefully he'll see. I've had a lot of Lebanese wines (mostly Musar but also Kafraya and Ksara (sp?). The only other wines I've had from Islamic countries were the Algerian and Moroccan wines one used to see in NYC on occasion, I haven't seen lately but I haven't really looked. I'd guess that the Lebanese wineries might have significant local consumption, as a sizable portion of the population is still Christian. But the North African countries are almost exclusively Islamic (Algeria almost became an Islamic state not that long ago). I'd be curious as to what the story is (I know friends found beer and wine quite available in Morocco, but unsure re what locals do).

And yes I realize that Algeria and Morocco are farther from Israel than France and Italy are!

I too am keen to read what Rogov says but I think that the French as former colonialists in Morocco, Tunisia and Algieria (which was actually a French département) and as protectors in Lebanon played an important part in promoting a wine culture. I believe that a lot of the Moroccan (and maybe Tunisian) élite still drink wine but I doubt if that is still the case in Algeria where fundamentalism and even terrorism are strong. The strong Christian presence in Lebanon, many of whom used to be French speaking, undoubtedly adds an extra stability to wine consumption there.

BTW I read an interesting post somewhere (was it from Otto?) pointing out that the Koran did not actually forbid alcoholic drink but tended to discourage those, e.g. wine, which had historically to be imported into the Arabian heartlands.

BTW I read an interesting post somewhere (was it from Otto?) pointing out that the Koran did not actually forbid alcoholic drink but tended to discourage those, e.g. wine, which had historically to be imported into the Arabian heartlands.

You might be referring to the overview of what current scholarship tends to think about the so-called alcohol ban in Islam, which I paraphrased like this:

The "holy" books of Islam (Qur'an and several canonical collections of Hadith) say very little about alcohol, so the different law schools in Islam have always had differing views - yet IIRC only the Hanbali school has historically prohibited alcohol. Within the schools of law, there is a general template of five degrees for what is allowed: things one must do, things one should do, neutral deeds, things one shouldn't do and things one must not do. The Hanbalites aside, IIRC all other schools say alcohol is neutral. (I don't have my references with me now, so I might not remember a detail or two correctly, so don't quote me on this!). But my interests lie in the early history of Islam, so I'm on very shaky ground when it comes to today's situation, but I have understood that since the middle of the 19th C and increasingly so since TV became available in the 20th, the hard-line Hanbali-inspired Wahhabism from Saudi Arabia has been spreading elsewhere, so I expect the situation is getting more hard-line against alcohol everywhere in the Islamic world.

The confusion within Islamic law arises from the problematic text in the Qur'an that prohibits khumr - red wine (possibly from grapes, possibly from dates). Yet the Hadith have texts mentioning the Prophet Muhammad drinking fermented camel's milk. Modern scholarship tends to see the prohibition of red wine as being related to the idea that the birth of Islam itself was a way of distancing the Arabian Peninsula from both the Byzantine and Persian empires - effectively it was a declaration of independence, since both empires used Arab tribes as buffers. And since wine was not grown in the Arabian peninsula, importing it was prohibited (but local drinks like fermented camels' milk was ok).

[David M. Bueker]

So when do we get the fermented camel milk tasting notes?

Apologies...I had missed these questions earlier:

As to wine production and consumption in Arab/Moslem countries:

In Lebanon for example, because there is a sizeable Christian population the wine industry has not only flourished but is continuing to expand and the country is most surely going through a second wine re-awakening in wine consumption. Although the wine industry is dominate by Christians, consumers are Moslems and Christians alike and that because many of the Moslems in the country are rather relaxed in their practices. While they may keep Halal in food, they will sometimes drink wine but that most often not in public places but either at home or with small groups at private parties. In a sense the issue to many is not so much abstenance but one of not being ostentatious in their consumption.

There are now more than 20 wineries in Lebanon, at least four of which are producing wines that often attain excellence and others are rapidly improving, that largely because of input by French and American winemakers, more modern wineries and better development of vineyards. Lebanon is fortunate in the region as it has at least four indigenous grapes that are capable of producing quality wine.

A good reference to Lebanese wines is Michal Karam's book: "Wines of Lebanon" available through Amazon.

Not all is trouble free for wine lovers in Lebanon however. One well known wine writer was offered a contract and even an advance to do a book on Lebanese wines (that similar to my own Israeli wine guide) but was "approached" by Hezbollah and told that it might be "dangerous to his and his family's well being" to undertake such a project.

Jordan and Egypt are also seeing blossoming wine industries at this time but so far results are not overly promising.

In the Maghreb we find a re-awakening of the wine industry in Algeria and Morocco even Tunisia, that with a good deal of investment and input from well established wine producers in France. Vineyards are being planted once again and we are probably only two-four years from seeing the first major leaps in quantity and quality from both of those countries It is important to realize that wine consumption in these three countries is now at about 2.5 liters per person annually but that has risen from less than 1% just five years ago.

Turkey is in a unique position, having indigenous varieties and finally starting to produce some good wine, those most often blends of indigenous and French varieties (Grenache and Syrah being the most frequently planted these days The best Turkish wines today are being produced by small, often artisanal wineries..

In what some of what many in the West think of a "deep Moslem countries", the wine industries are not at all lively, production limited to monasteries and distribution very limited. Oddly enough, the wealthy in at least several of these states, despite their Moslem faith, do consume very good wine, that not infrequently smuggled across borders on mules and brought to "special" outlets where they can be purchased. Known widely as "the mule traders", dealers in such wines often thrive while the costs of wines (mostly from France) are very high due largely to the bribe money that must be paid in order to not only stay in business but to stay alive and with both hands still attached to the wrists.

With regard to Cyprus, the island is most definitely going through a wine awakening, many of its vines dating back to pre-phylloxera days and also having indigenous varieties. The wine industry is also relying heavily now on French and California trained winemakers and many young Cypriots are studying at UC Davis and Montpellier and then returning to the island to take over family owned vineyards and small wineries. Most positive signs.

As to the fermented milk of Camels, that remains a popular drink among the Bedouins found in any of the countries in which they are found. Here in Israel a few chefs have managed to serve up some splendid desserts based on such milk but the beverage itself is found primarily in Bedouin camps and homes. It can also be purchased either for consumption on the spot or to take home in the shuk at Beer Sheva. In taste and texture reminds somewhat of egg nog with a distinctly sour side.

Was just reminded by a well known figure in the wine trade that even in the most devoutly Moslem of countries, wine is allowed "for medicinal purposes". Even in Iran for example, there are several licensed pharmacists that have quite extensive wine cellars, the wines being dispensed on receipt of a prescription by a medical doctor. The wines carried in such places are quite often from the better Bordeaux chateaux. As can be imagined, consumption is limited almost entirely to the wealthy, the very wealthy and the outrageously wealthy.

Best
Rogov

Are most Cypriot wines from French varieties? Or are there native or Greek varieties?

I was in Cyprus in September, I didn't get to visit any wineries but bought wine every evening, trying to get only local wines from indigenous varieties -with limited success.

International varieties predominate, sometimes with local varities in a subordinate part of a blend.

Red variety that was good as a varietal is Maratheftiko, several wineries producing this and I brought home a couple of bottles from the airport shop.

Also enjoyed a red blend of indigenous Mavro, Lefkada with Cab Sauv & Shiraz

On the white front we enjoyed a bottle of Keo Aphrodite white at lunch time , no varieties shown but I guess it has a lot of the local Xynisteri.

From the archive.

WTN: N/V Langlois Carmin Dry, Loire Valley.

Very nice Xmas Eve meal down in Medicine Hat last year. 13.5% alc, $28 Cdn. 100 percent Cab Franc. Served just slightly chilled with a roast shoulder.

Very fine mousse, off-dry, medium intense center with faded strawberry rim. Quite delicate, not a big fruit bomb! Just a hint of green pepper on finish but nice blackcurrant and berry. Guess might be hard to find elsewhere, even Jim Budd in the UK was surprised when I first mentioned this wine.

**** I will be serving again this upcoming holiday. I have also found a Rhubarb wine made in Alberta!

Bob

A Cab Franc from the Loire is hardly a less well known grape or region?

A Cab Franc from the Loire is hardly a less well known grape or region?

I'd say a sparkling Mousseux made from cabernet franc is rarely seen in my neck of the woods. Most of the sparkling Loire stuff we see is made from chenin blanc.

A Cab Franc from the Loire is hardly a less well known grape or region?

I'd say a sparkling Mousseux made from cabernet franc is rarely seen in my neck of the woods. Most of the sparkling Loire stuff we see is made from chenin blanc.

Agree

But where does it say it is such a beast?

A Cab Franc from the Loire is hardly a less well known grape or region?

I'd say a sparkling Mousseux made from cabernet franc is rarely seen in my neck of the woods. Most of the sparkling Loire stuff we see is made from chenin blanc.

Agree

But where does it say it is such a beast?

I inferred it from the following:

100 percent Cab Franc . . . Very fine mousse

A Cab Franc from the Loire is hardly a less well known grape or region?

I'd say a sparkling Mousseux made from cabernet franc is rarely seen in my neck of the woods. Most of the sparkling Loire stuff we see is made from chenin blanc.

Thanks Keith. I quote Robins introduction.......>

Select something that you would want to introduce to others (i.e. something special to you that many others may not appreciate...yet), or something new and different to you

Blimey, that is what I am doing. How many have tasted a sparkling Cab Franc around here?

I will get my coat!

My question was answered Bob -- its just that a sparkling CF is so unusual I didn't twig it was -- there was only the word mousse but I've encountered people using that on a still wine to indicate a creamy mouthfeel.

How did they get the bubbles in? Was it methode champenoise or .... ?

Domaine des Baumard makes a pair of Cremant de Loire Sparkling Cabernet Franc wines that are lovely (Carte Corail and Brut Rose) and shouldn't be too hard to find for those who are interested.

Cheers,
Bill