WTN /Wine Advisor: Many faces of Sauvignon Blanc

[Robin Garr]

Many faces of Sauvignon Blanc

It's one of the most popular white-wine varieties, but <i>which</I> Sauvignon Blanc do you admire? From Sancerre to Marlborough and around the world, Sauvignon Blanc shows a bewildering array of personalities.

Likely originating in Bordeaux and, like its cousin Cabernet Sauvignon probably originally a wild ("<i>sauvage</i>") grape though under cultivation for 1,000 years or more, Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes labeled just-plain "Sauvignon," just as Cabernet Sauvignon often goes by just-plain "Cabernet."

In white Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc is almost invariably blended with Semillon, but France's Loire Valley typically holds the Sauvignon quotient pure and unblended in regionally named wines from Sancerre to Pouilly-Fumé. In the New World, California's Robert Mondavi breathed new commercial life into the variety, a generation past, when he borrowed the Loire moniker to re-dub the grape "Fumé Blanc," an effort that seemed to increase the variety's market share simply because it was easier to pronounce.

New Zealand wines, once virtually unknown outside the British Commonwealth, burst into the world's view when Cloudy Bay introduced its startling rendition of Sauvignon Blanc with its bold, in-your-face green-chile and tomcat aromas; it wasn't long before the Kiwis were virtually flooding the wine world with competitors, heating up the marketplace with entries from all over ... Northern Italy, South Africa, Chile ... you'll be hard pressed to find any wine region that doesn't produce at least a little Sauvignon Blanc.

But it can be surprisingly difficult to get a handle on exactly what to expect from the grape. Sauvignon Blanc is almost invariably on the more aromatic side, but its character can change markedly depending on a variety of factors. Controlling sunlight and summer heat exposure through "canopy management" - pruning the vines so as to expose the grapes to sun or keep them under shade - can move the resulting wine across a flavor spectrum from grapefruit and citrus at the sunny end to the herbaceous "green" flavors from damp grass to gooseberry, green chile and the notorious "catbox" (or "boxwood") scents that made New Zealand famous at the shady end.

"Overcropping" - greedily farming vineyards to maximize tonnage at the expense of quality - can yield insipid wines, and frankly, I'm seeing too much of this in the lower-price range around the world. <i>Terroir</i>, particularly in the Loire, can contribute a lovely stony minerality, particularly if the wine is not heavily manipulated in the winery. And oak treatment can be a blessing, when it appears as a delicate perfume (as in the outstanding California Sauvignon from Iron Horse featured below), or a curse, when it's done with such a heavy hand that the Sauvignon becomes indistinguishable from an oaky Chardonnay.

How can wine consumers know what to expect from a Sauvignon Blanc? It's not always easy! In general, if you like your Sauvignon grassy but subtle, look to France, whereas those who fancy it green but brassy might veer toward New Zealand. Check the New World for full, citric renditions, but be aware throughout this process that individual bottlings will vary widely, so look for tasting reports from trusted sources or ask a trusted merchant if you're in doubt.

<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/ironhorse.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Iron Horse Vineyards 2005 T Bar T Vineyard "Cuvée R" Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc
($24 retail, $21 per bottle for half or full case orders by California Wine Club Connoisseurs' Series members)

Transparent pale-straw color with just a glint of brass. Honeydew and subtle citrus, closer to lemon-lime than citrus. Big and full, ripe and juicy white-fruit flavors; bone-dry and well-built on a firm acidic structure. The 14.03 percent alcohol and barrel fermentation in both French and American oak might concern me in an everyday Sauvignon Blanc, but this is no everyday wine: All the components are handled beautifully and come together in an impressive Sauvignon Blanc that can't be compared with the Loire or New Zealand or even other California bottlings but speaks persuasively with its own voice. Fine with a light summer dinner crafted to match: Shuckman's alder-smoked salmon cured in Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon, sliced thin and tossed with cucumber julienne in crème fraîche with subtle South Asian spice. Only 1,000 cases made. Winery Website: http://www.ironhorsevineyards.com (Aug. 12, 2007)

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Good stuff, Robin. Well written precis on SB.

To which I might add that one of the great changes in SB over the last few years, also largely attributed to the New Zealanders, is the increasing use of anaerobic fermentation for SB.

It's made a significant difference in how the wine expresses itself, as it allows SB to keep its initial intense, focused, exuberant freshness and liveliness. That anaerobic style, coupled with better sourcing (i.e., cooler subclimates) and better clonal selection---along with, I think, better farming overall---is showing SB from the West Coast as better than ever before. A 'perfect storm' in a very, very positive sense.

Think I might have to try an SB like this one. There is another thread about the Sterling ( from Jenise) that has rekindled my interest in California SBs.

"In general, if you like your Sauvignon grassy but subtle, look to France, whereas those who fancy it green but brassy might veer toward New Zealand. Check the New World for full, citric renditions...."

Thank you Robin for a wonderful summary of the basic differences ... taking account of course of your caveat for winemaker input in each of those areas of the world.

Regards, Bob

[Jenise]

To which I might add that one of the great changes in SB over the last few years, also largely attributed to the New Zealanders, is the increasing use of anaerobic fermentation for SB.

Hoke, can you take a moment to explain anaerobic fermentation?

Well, we're treading on dangerous turf here, because I'm not a chemistry major. But I will attempt to give you a layman's version.

When you start fermentation, there are essentially two stages, a first primary fermentation which is very lively, active and vigorous. Then there is a secondary, quieter, slower, less violent fermentation..until it either stops, or you stop it.

During the first violent fermentation the must/wine is essentially anaerobic (without oxygen) because the carbon dioxide produces a barrier between the fermenting must and the air, and the yeast basically 'sheath' themselves anaerobically within the wine.

But in the slower, secondary, quieter fermentation, the carbdon dioxide doesn't form a barrier and oxygen slowly creeps down into the wine, and you get the beginning of the oxidative process.

So....if you start with a sealed container to limit the availability of oxygen to begin with, and then prevent any oxygen from entering into the vessel, voila, you have anaerobic fermentation (fermentation in the absence of oxygen) and therefore have no oxidation of the wine. Seal that baby up in a screwcap bottle geared for no oxygen exchange, and when you open the bottle you get all the immediate, unadulterad, unoxygenated (i.e., uncorroded) freshness of the wine!

Now, conversely, another practice that is pretty much the reverse is what they call 'micro-ox'...which is purposely folding in very controlled amounts of oxygen into a wine. It's what the Australians are famous for. In a sense, it 'pre-ages' or mellows and softens a wine---basically by inducing controlled oxidation. Less freshness but more fullness and roundness, might be another way of saying it. This is popular, again, with quick-consumption, low-priced Chardonnay (you might think of a couple of examples, perhaps one with a bright color and a posterior appendage in the name?).

Thus endeth the very rudimentary explanation. I'm sure the chemists and pedants will chime in soon. Tick tick tick tick tick....

Seal that baby up in a screwcap bottle geared for no oxygen exchange, and when you open the bottle you get all the immediate, unadulterad, unoxygenated (i.e., uncorroded) freshness of the wine!

What are the implications for complexity and aging potential?

I.E. when you emphasize freshness do you mean it is an extra-intense smack of simple primary fruit. Fresh as it may be?

Seal that baby up in a screwcap bottle geared for no oxygen exchange, and when you open the bottle you get all the immediate, unadulterad, unoxygenated (i.e., uncorroded) freshness of the wine!

What are the implications for complexity and aging potential?

I.E. when you emphasize freshness do you mean it is an extra-intense smack of simple primary fruit. Fresh as it may be?

Excellent question, Rahsaan.

I don't know the answer.

It would depend on whether what we think of as the aging process, that is, what we've been "taught" is the aging process, is essentially the slow degradation of wine from outside sources, most notably oxygen degradation. But that's because, of necessity, we come from a cork paradigm (poorly controlled but inevitable slow oxidation). Now we're in another country.

My instinctive answer is that aging is not simply the process of oxygen degradation, but that other processes are going on apace. But beyond that, I'm really not sure of myself.

I can certainly tell you from first hand anecdotal experience that anaerobic white wine still ages noticeably within a screwcap-sealed bottle, a la some of the Rieslings, and to a far lesser extent simply because they haven't been around that long, some of the NZ Sauvignon Blancs. And these wines seem to have no problem getting past the primary stage you describe, and developing strong, distinctive secondary and tertiary characteristics. And I'd add that most of the examples I cited above were in the absence of oak as well, so that was not a secondary or tertiary factor either.

So I guess my final answer will have to be: Can I get back to you on that?

Can I get back to you on that?

No problem.

But thanks for bringing something new to my/our attention.

Likely originating in Bordeaux and, like its cousin Cabernet Sauvignon probably originally a wild ("<i>sauvage</i>") grape though under cultivation for 1,000 years or more, Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes labeled just-plain "Sauvignon," just as Cabernet Sauvignon often goes by just-plain "Cabernet."

Cousin, Robin?? Surely you mean child, since it has been firmly established that Cabernet Sauvignon resulted from a cross of Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Or have you lived in Kenucky for too long now to make those fine distinctions?

Mark Lipton

Likely originating in Bordeaux and, like its cousin Cabernet Sauvignon probably originally a wild ("<i>sauvage</i>") grape though under cultivation for 1,000 years or more, Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes labeled just-plain "Sauvignon," just as Cabernet Sauvignon often goes by just-plain "Cabernet."

Cousin, Robin?? Surely you mean child, since it has been firmly established that Cabernet Sauvignon resulted from a cross of Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Or have you lived in Kenucky for too long now to make those fine distinctions?

Mark Lipton

Hey, in Kentucky the difference between cousin and anything else is a moot point anyway.

So....you have any expertise to add to my bumbling dissertation on anaerobic fermentation, Mark?

[Jenise]

Thanks, Hoke. I didn't realize. I had always understood that the secret of New Zealand SB had to do with picking at several levels of ripeness in order to create a harmonious blend that would have both bold fruit flavor and ample acidity. Anaerobic fermentation adds another layer.

So....you have any expertise to add to my bumbling dissertation on anaerobic fermentation, Mark?

Your description sounded pretty much on the mark to me. If you ferment under a CO2 blanket or in a closed vessel, you're going to be anaerobic. The aging question I'll pass on, just like you, too!

Mark Lipton

[Robin Garr]

To which I might add that one of the great changes in SB over the last few years, also largely attributed to the New Zealanders, is the increasing use of anaerobic fermentation for SB.

It's made a significant difference in how the wine expresses itself, as it allows SB to keep its initial intense, focused, exuberant freshness and liveliness.

Do you happen to know if Bonterra's excellent new Sauvignon Blanc uses this technique, Hoke? Unfortunately, the Website seems to be outdated ... doesn't list it.

Our go to Ca SBs have been the ones from Kenwood. Very reliable year in year out. Unfortunately the price has been creeping up a bit.

To which I might add that one of the great changes in SB over the last few years, also largely attributed to the New Zealanders, is the increasing use of anaerobic fermentation for SB.

It's made a significant difference in how the wine expresses itself, as it allows SB to keep its initial intense, focused, exuberant freshness and liveliness.

Do you happen to know if Bonterra's excellent new Sauvignon Blanc uses this technique, Hoke? Unfortunately, the Website seems to be outdated ... doesn't list it.

Yep, it does, Jenise. (One of our winemakers for another brand put some time in in New Zealand, and he brought that influence back.) Not only does the Bonterra SB do anaerobic fermentation, they also souce the grapes from both Mendocino (48%) and Lake County (52%)---with the Lake County grapes coming from an organic grower that has vineyards in a very, very cold part of northern Lake County; we've been working with him many years now and he farms precisely to our needs, and always delivers superlative fruit. The combination of good sourcing and the anaerobic is what gives the Bonterra it's style---and we happen to be drinking a lot of it this summer, since my wife loooooves Sauvignon Blanc.

I'd describe it as California...with a New Zealandish accent. It's not loaded down with the cat pee and green pepper; not green or unripe, more the floral than the pyrazine. And it's packed with fresh, tangy grapefruit and mango and loaded with acidity.

And it's screwcap. Our first one. I hope not the last (and probably not).

(Disclaimer for those who don't know: I work with Bonterra Vineyards.)

Our go to Ca SBs have been the ones from Kenwood. Very reliable year in year out. Unfortunately the price has been creeping up a bit.

Kenwood is good; always has been reliable.

Try Lake Sonoma. Same family of wineries, and lately the Lake Sonoma has been smashing.

[Robin Garr]

Yep, it does, Jenise.

Jenise?

I'd describe it as California...with a New Zealandish accent. It's not loaded down with the cat pee and green pepper; not green or unripe, more the floral than the pyrazine. And it's packed with fresh, tangy grapefruit and mango and loaded with acidity.

And it's screwcap. Our first one. I hope not the last (and probably not).

(Disclaimer for those who don't know: I work with Bonterra Vineyards.)

I picked up one today locally (at Big Jim's suggestion) and enjoyed it with dinner tonight. Will probably write it up tomorrow. I don't honestly get a lot of "New Zealand" out of it, but frankly, I'm just as glad, as I'm a bit tired of that in-your-face style. This was ... interesting. Very fresh indeed, and it strikes me as having both some grass and some citrus - subtle grapefruit, but also something deliciously like just a hint of tangerine. Maybe picks up one character from the Lake grapes and the other from the Mendocino?

The range of winemaking practices is truly enormous. I was at a meeting last weekend where a very good winemaker, originally from France, mentioned that when he arrived in the US he couldn't believe that it was not standard practice to deliberately introduce oxygen several days after the onset of primary fermentation. He said this is one of the few absolutes he learned in France.

Hoke, I have been checking out the Bonterra selections on the shelves here and am keen to sample some. The Grill has the cab sauv on their winelist and local store has a fair selection. Maybe an Open Mike would be a good idea, bet a few here would be interested. JR, Brian, Bob R come to mind right away. You could take part with a few comments naturally. What do you think?

robin:

Sorry about the Jenise thing...guess the identification of the two of you on this site has become complete.

Glad you liked the SB.

Interesting mileage variance: I get lots o'grapefruit. Lots. And tangerine, yeah, I sure understand that.

Reason I said New Zealandish is not so much because it carries that green-ness and almost harsh pyrazine-pepperiness that some Enzeds have now, but because of the tropical fruit middle that is also a characteristic of Enzeds (or used to be moreso?).

And also because whenever I take the wine around for tastings, the most common response I get--honestly---is "Are you sure this is a CALIFORNIA Sauvignon??? Boy, tastes more New Zealand or something..." By which, I think they mean more vibrant, more nervy, more jump-out-of-the-glass fruit/acid.

Most CA SBs tend be very pretty and---sorry---fairly dull, or if they do show their high acid they tend to be screechy and not in balance. Too shrill. So they are either flowery, or shrill. To me, this style is much more appealling: lots of character, lots of complexity, hits both the high notes and the middle.

I'm also interested in seeing how this wine ages...although it's going to be tough keeping my hands off it to find out; but then, for me that's always the way it is.

[Robin Garr]

I'm also interested in seeing how this wine ages...although it's going to be tough keeping my hands off it to find out; but then, for me that's always the way it is.

I wimp out on that in today's report, which I'll be posting shortly ...

The range of winemaking practices is truly enormous. I was at a meeting last weekend where a very good winemaker, originally from France, mentioned that when he arrived in the US he couldn't believe that it was not standard practice to deliberately introduce oxygen several days after the onset of primary fermentation. He said this is one of the few absolutes he learned in France.

Dan: That's one of the appealling---although some would say appalling---results of the influence of globalization we talk about. Winemakers are travelling to other regions more, learning other approaches, other practices, other techniques, other perspectives. And as a result of this interchange of ideas, we're seeing otherwise predictable (and some would say straitjacketed) areas change their style of wine. Some for the good; some for the bad, at least to me.

Of course, we run up against the Staunch Traditionalists (You can't change ANYTHING, EVER! Change is BAD." Or the "Change is inevitable: Embrace it!" crew. Most of us, as usual, reside somewhere in the middle, where we value tradition but we maintain an open, questing mind.

In the case of the Bonterra, I can tell you that the response to this "new" style has been almost unanimously enthusiastic. Of course, we haven''t heard from the New York Contingent or the PointySheep yet, so what do we know.

Hoke, I have been checking out the Bonterra selections on the shelves here and am keen to sample some. The Grill has the cab sauv on their winelist and local store has a fair selection. Maybe an Open Mike would be a good idea, bet a few here would be interested. JR, Brian, Bob R come to mind right away. You could take part with a few comments naturally. What do you think?

Bob: That's your call. It would be inappropriate for me to initiate such, since I'm associated with the winery, but I'd certainly reply/chime in if the discussion ensued---with the disclaimer, of course, that I am not an objective or disinterested voice.