by Robin Garr » Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:35 am
Harry, hi ...
Gundlach-Bundschu 2015 Sonoma Coast Estate Vineyard Dry Gewürztraminer ($20)
Transparent, light straw color, unusual for a variety generally known for its pinkish to light-red skin that often imparts a rich, even rosy color. There’s nothing light about the aromas or flavors, though, which show characteristic Gewurz boldness. I pick up only a whiff of the Chinese-dessert litchees that often signal Gewurz; here they’re shy behind a more in-your-face sense of stone fruit - peaches and apricots. Stone fruit and litchees carry over on the palate in a bright, bold flavor that’s bone-dry - a rare thing in a Gewurz - with tart meyer lemon and “rainwater” minerality joining in. 14.3% alcohol is a bit pushy for a white, but it works in this wine, with zingy lemon curd lingering in a very long finish. Gewurz is often proposed as a match for Asian fare, and Gundlach-Bundschu’s website reflects this wisdom. We think the notion is legendary, based on Gewurz translating to German as “spicy.” Asia is huge and diverse. No wine will match it all. Still, not-too-fiery stir-fries should work, especially with chicken or fish. In Alsace, they love it with aromatic cheeses, and that will certainly work. We enjoyed it with white-bean, potato and tomato soup.
